Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

[b700029]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

I'd say they're not polarized and too small to be inductors, so either caps or resistors. Ceramic caps tend to be brownish while resistors are closer to black.

Diodes usually have a mark on one end.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

The one that's damaged and still there looks pretty black to me.
And the photo isn't good enough to see marks on the end.
.

[mockingbird]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

The one that's damaged and still there looks pretty black to me.
And the photo isn't good enough to see marks on the end.
.

Yes, I was thinking that they wouldn't be able to wind wire in that small a package. And resistors don't look like that.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

Yes, I was thinking that they wouldn't be able to wind wire in that small a package. And resistors don't look like that.

It's not even uncommon.
Read the dimensions.
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...1N0K-ND/635215

.

[lukeman3000]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

So, should I worry about which direction I put it back in? Is it likely I caused it damage by it falling onto the floor?

[mockingbird]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

It's not even uncommon.
Read the dimensions.
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...1N0K-ND/635215.

Impressive.

Look at the leads ("0402" Datasheet link). They run perpendicular to the length while the ceramic cap has the leads running perpendicular to the width.

So, should I worry about which direction I put it back in? Is it likely I caused it damage by it falling onto the floor?

Doubtful. I'd bet that if you even just bridged those two points, you'd get no problems (Though don't take my word for it) Solder it back in any direction.

[lukeman3000]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

So, I just removed the IHS from my gtx 470. I have a fear that I may have damaged something. If you look in the lower-right corner of the chip (not the die, but the green area that the die rests on), you will notice a little scratch. I can see a little bit of what looks like copper in that scratch. It doesn't look very deep, but still, it worries me. Did I just kill my chip? I thought I did everything pretty much right; I followed the instructions and didn't put the blade in too far, and then I bent it up and the IHS simply popped off. Prior to doing that, I cut around the edges like the instructions said. Am I screwed? I didn't nick any of the little resistors or anything like that.

Other guys on the overclock forum seem to think that I should be ok, but I just thought I would post here as well and see what you guys thought.

[mariushm]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

No matter what we say, it's not like you can go back in time and fix it.

Just assume it's going to be OK and carry on.. get your card working.

[Scenic]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

As long as there aren't any embedded traces in that area (use a flashlight), it's probably still OK.

Just make sure the Die touches the heatsink when you mount the cooler again (verify the thermal grease is spreading evenly when you put the stock heatsink back on).
Remember: the heatspreader is missing, so that's usually at least 1mm of height (you can measure the thickness of the heatspreader yourself..) missing between the Die and the stock heatsink, which might end up in the Die not making proper contact.

[lukeman3000]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

As long as there aren't any embedded traces in that area (use a flashlight), it's probably still OK.

Just make sure the Die touches the heatsink when you mount the cooler again (verify the thermal grease is spreading evenly when you put the stock heatsink back on).
Remember: the heatspreader is missing, so that's usually at least 1mm of height (you can measure the thickness of the heatspreader yourself..) missing between the Die and the stock heatsink, which might end up in the Die not making proper contact.

I'm not exactly sure what you're saying, but the Antec 620 will be in direct contact with the die. Both surfaces are (should be) flat, so it should make good contact. Others on OCN have done this, and have reported significantly lower temps after running for several hours, seemingly with no problems.

The only concern that I'm aware of is to make sure that the copper surface of the Antec 620 doesn't touch the resistors when the card is on, because it could short them out. But that shouldn't happen as long as I make sure I get it tight against the die, as the die is raised "significantly" above the resistors.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

I'm not sure but I think the copper out there is just a ground plane for EMI sheilding.
.

[Scenic]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

I'm not exactly sure what you're saying, but the Antec 620 will be in direct contact with the die.

nevermind.. I thought you were going to put the stock nvidia cooler back on, which probably would have ended in a problem (lacking the few mm thickness from the heatspreader, thus not making contact with the heatsink), but mounting that Antec watercooler on there is a whole different story..

edit: BTW.. whoever had that idea .. thumbs up.
A "universal" (Sockes 775/1155/1156/1366/AM2(+)/AM3(+)) closed loop watercooling system on a graphics card.. kinda makes sense if you see they way the watercooler is intended to be mounted, and how the stock heatsink is mounted around the GPU on a graphics card (usually 4 holes in a square.. much like Socket 775)

http://p.gzhls.at/621824.jpg

edit2: off topic: I still don't get why antec gave those things a german name ("Kühler" .. literally means "Cooler")..
Did they do it just to be ... err.. "cool" ?

[lukeman3000]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

nevermind.. I thought you were going to put the stock nvidia cooler back on, which probably would have ended in a problem (lacking the few mm thickness from the heatspreader, thus not making contact with the heatsink), but mounting that Antec watercooler on there is a whole different story..

edit: BTW.. whoever had that idea .. thumbs up.
A "universal" (Sockes 775/1155/1156/1366/AM2(+)/AM3(+)) closed loop watercooling system on a graphics card.. kinda makes sense if you see they way the watercooler is intended to be mounted, and how the stock heatsink is mounted around the GPU on a graphics card (usually 4 holes in a square.. much like Socket 775)

http://p.gzhls.at/621824.jpg

edit2: off topic: I still don't get why antec gave those things a german name ("Kühler" .. literally means "Cooler")..
Did they do it just to be ... err.. "cool" ?

That's a good question. And yeah, I think it's an ingenious idea.. A watercooling solution for 60 bucks? Heck yeah. I'm using the ziptie method and honestly it works great. Plus, removing the IHS will give me a precious couple millimeters of space that will help reduce the tension between the two cards. Not that it's terrible, but it will be nice to have them a little further apart.

As far as the mounting goes, you have to make a custom bracket if you want to actually screw it onto the gpu. It can (and has) been done. But I have zero experience with steel fabrication (or whatever material you would use), so there's no way I could handle that. I don't have the tools, either.

Others have ziptied the mouting ring to the card, and then locked the cooler head into the mounting ring that way, but I prefer just to ziptie the cooler head directly to the card because I think it's a better end result. The BEST option of course would be to fabricate a custom ring that would allow you to twist and lock the cooler head right onto the graphics card without any zipties, but I don't have the resources or knowledge for that.

[lukeman3000]

Re: Broke my GTX 470, need help identifying replacement cap

Update: Put the SMD components back on the card. Strapped the Antec 620 directly to the gpu die, and it's working fine. Temps are down 7C, and I have a couple extra precious millimeters of space between my cards, so they're exerting much less pressure on each other now.

But it can't be that easy. Ever since I fired up the pump, I noticed a clicking noise. It is the impeller hitting the wall, or something like that. A magnet held up to the pump fixes the problem, but it has to stay there, and I don't like keeping a magnet strapped to the pump which is directly over my other gpu.

It is possible to take the pump completely apart and another guy has come up with a fix for the problem, but that's a lot of work. If it's not actually damaging to the pump, I may just live with the noise because it's generally not noticeable unless my head is under the desk.