Recommend me a MultiMeter

[ratdude747]

oops, should have edited the the quote, my bad.

thats not what they asked. answer their question, but don't cut in with crap like that. if they want to know they WILL ask.

i might ask about a multimeter now and then, but i know lots about soldering irons.

like if a gamer asks about hardware, that doesnt mean that he's a n00b with software, especially games.

[Xeoncross]

I also am looking for a cheap multimeter (and esr meter too I guess) to help me test my LCD that died. I don't plan on making a hobby out of this unless my other boards start dieing also.... oh great....

Originally Posted by KeriJane

Most multimeters that have capacitance ranges do not go above 200μf. Most of the capacitors that give us trouble are rated much higher than that. I use a BK Precision 815 component tester that ranges to 20,000μ for testing capacitors.

With that in mind does anyone second the mention that the 14213+TE would be a an ok unit for testing the caps on my LCD that range from 100uF to 1000uF? Or would I need to spend more and get something like a $30 B&K to do the job?

Originally Posted by KeriJane

On the subject of Capacitors, multimeters do not generally check ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance). ESR is probably the most important value to check when dealing with electrolytic capacitors. A separate ESR meter is required to check this.

I can't find any esr meters for less than $50 though. Paying over $100 for the DMM, ESR Meter, and a solder station seems like it kind of defeats the purpose of fixing the screen myself.

Then again, I'm sure I will use this stuff again.

[kikkoman]

for one fix the ESR meter is defnitely overkill. you might even get away without a multimeter.
on the other hand, if you do get one, get a proper one. you don't need a Fluke, but as a general rule, mostly anything cheaper than 50$ is just crap. they're okay for *some* things, but if you use them around the house (mains voltage etc.) you don't want to rely on them. seriously not.
check the previous posts for recommendations, and here's mine:
the Uni-Trend UT61E. they go for about 40-60$/€ and it's hard to find a meter that can compete at that price. there are cheaper models in the 61 series but the E is capable of True RMS and has better resolution and accuracy.
build quality is quite nice, too (it's got HRC fuses and proper input and overload protection, HV slots etc.), autorange, all the min/max/hold stuff, RS232, capacity readings up to 220.000µ, frequency up to 220MHz, and comes with GOOD probes.

best 40 bucks I've ever spent on equipment.
it can't compete with a Fluke, but hey, I don't care.

[Xeoncross]

The Uni-Trend UT61E does look nice - but there is no way I can afford $70 just to test a couple caps. I really need the bare minimum just to get this LCD fixed. The problem is that I don't know what the bare minimum is. I get the feeling that like just about everything else - the cheap stuff works enough to get the/a job done - but no one likes to use it and it doesn't last long - which is fine for me.

When I build computers I can always choose a cheap $20 ECS mobo that just barely handles the job - or I can spend $70 and get a good Gigabyte/MSI that has better everything.

Same with cameras, you'd be surprised how good of a shot some of those cheap point-and-shoot things can take. I still rather use a good canon - but it's the photographer that makes the difference. My boss has an awesome canon but can't shoot anything worth saving.

I'm not trying to sound arrogant or anything since you guys obviously know way more about this than me - I just want to make sure that I'm not getting another bologna reply like "You have to use a Nvidia VCQFX5500-PCIE-PB 1GB Quadro if you game!".

[retiredcaps]

First of all, this is a hobby of mine and I'm not a pro where I depend on my equipment. So I wanted the cheapest possible multimeter to check fuses, shorts (continuity), ohm tests, etc. Nothing fancy. For me, it doesn't make sense to buy a $50+ multimeter to repair a $20 residue value monitor. Even $20 would be hard to justify unless I'm trying to fix a several hundred dollar LCD or plasma TV.

This DT830B multimeter sells on amazon, but can be found on ebay for $1 + shipping. I didn't expect the greatest or most accurate, but I did it expect it to work.

After waiting 39 days, it finally arrived today. Well, big disappointment. It doesn't work at all. When I set it to ohms (200) and touch the two probes together I get nothing on the LCD display. Nothing. So I change 9V batteries (both are new and known to work) and same thing.

I tried measuring simple things like AA batteries and I get nothing at all on the display.

So naturally, I will be asking for a refund, but in the meantime, I decided to take it apart. See pics.

PROS
====
- lightweight
- rotary knob feels solid and makes a nice click sound

CONS
====
- very poor soldering job inside (see npn tester)
- 9V battery prongs need to be pryed out to make contact and hold battery in case
- user "manual" is your typical poorly written crap
- no "tone" for continuity
- plenty of reports on amazon saying it doesn't work or fails very quickly

PS. I'm going to order a different "cheap" ebay multimeter and borrow a multimeter from a friend! :-)

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

First of all, this is a hobby of mine and I'm not a pro where I depend on my equipment. So I wanted the cheapest possible multimeter to check fuses, shorts (continuity), ohm tests, etc. Nothing fancy. For me, it doesn't make sense to buy a $50+ multimeter to repair a $20 residue value monitor. Even $20 would be hard to justify unless I'm trying to fix a several hundred dollar LCD or plasma TV.

This DT830B multimeter sells on amazon, but can be found on ebay for $1 + shipping. I didn't expect the greatest or most accurate, but I did it expect it to work.

After waiting 39 days, it finally arrived today. Well, big disappointment. It doesn't work at all. When I set it to ohms (200) and touch the two probes together I get nothing on the LCD display. Nothing. So I change 9V batteries (both are new and known to work) and same thing.

I tried measuring simple things like AA batteries and I get nothing at all on the display.

So naturally, I will be asking for a refund, but in the meantime, I decided to take it apart. See pics.

PROS
====
- lightweight
- rotary knob feels solid and makes a nice click sound

CONS
====
- very poor soldering job inside (see npn tester)
- 9V battery prongs need to be pryed out to make contact and hold battery in case
- user "manual" is your typical poorly written crap
- no "tone" for continuity
- plenty of reports on amazon saying it doesn't work or fails very quickly

PS. I'm going to order a different "cheap" ebay multimeter and borrow a multimeter from a friend! :-)

One I would recommend is this one on eBay. It's a slightly improved version of the one I use and has been quite reliable for me. I've done business with the seller, and found him to be reliable.

PlainBill

[TassieGriz]

Get a Fluke!

[Dgtech]

I understand the need to save money on an object but the fact is, you get what you pay for. I, being a technician, can use a cheap meter and know that testing certain circuits the meter will lie to me. A novice user and troubleshooter would beleive the lie! Industries stick to namebrands such as: Fluke, B&K, and Tektronix for a reason (we even use some old Simpson analog meters). All have been proven and stand up to abuse. Not understanding how meters work can be a fatal mistake if improperly used. Some have lost their lives where I work due to this error. Cheap meters are basic ok measuring tools for reading anything with the power OFF. If you have come this far and found these posts, this means that you want to fix a project right and most likely, this wont be the last one you fix. You will get hooked to fixing things like most so why not buy a good long lasting Fluke?
Check some flea markets, CL ads, and even pawn shops. With lots of people and businesses losing jobs, they are selling off their tools.

[Scenic]

the dinosaur i'm using..
Xerox (by Simpson) 600T1616







and yes.. that quality control stamp says week 45, 1985

still using it because the cheapo ones (like the one retiredcaps posted) don't last more than a couple weeks for me.. (at best)
only drawback is that it eats 9V batteries like mad
so better not forget to turn it off..

bought it for 10EUR on a flea market at least 6 years ago..

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by Dgtech

I understand the need to save money on an object but the fact is, you get what you pay for. I, being a technician, can use a cheap meter and know that testing certain circuits the meter will lie to me. A novice user and troubleshooter would beleive the lie! Industries stick to namebrands such as: Fluke, B&K, and Tektronix for a reason (we even use some old Simpson analog meters). All have been proven and stand up to abuse. Not understanding how meters work can be a fatal mistake if improperly used. Some have lost their lives where I work due to this error. Cheap meters are basic ok measuring tools for reading anything with the power OFF. If you have come this far and found these posts, this means that you want to fix a project right and most likely, this wont be the last one you fix. You will get hooked to fixing things like most so why not buy a good long lasting Fluke?
Check some flea markets, CL ads, and even pawn shops. With lots of people and businesses losing jobs, they are selling off their tools.

With all due respect, there is a huge difference between someone using a tool as part of his livelihood, and someone repairing a few monitors in the evening. A decent Fluke scope will run a couple of hundred dollars. That is a bargain for someone who uses it in his job. It's a needless expense for someone doing this as a hobby.

As far as the bullshit about shock hazard, stop trying to scare people. Short of grabbing the probes at the tips and jamming them into a socket, or probing a 5KV line, I don't see how it would be possible to get a shock. The days when you had exposed live metal on a meter were gone decades ago.

PlainBill

[PowerAmpFreak]

Get a fluke! I've used Fluke the last 15 years. I've still my first Fluke as one of my best friends (A fluke 26 III) and a Fluke 185. I realize the cost of those may be well in excess for hobby use, but I'm a guy who value quality adn realiability, and of course safety during use. I've got some cheaper multimeters aswell but their quality is not in the same world as Fluke. You could go for a cheaper Fluke, I'm sure it will last forever and give you years of troublefree service!