Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

[goodpsusearch]

Today I got 2 not working 250 watt enlight psus from the stuff to de thrown away at uni.

The reason I got them is they have teapo primary caps and teapo secondary caps, so I was thinking I could use them as replacement caps since they are not bulging and teapo is known as a quite good capacitor brand for power supplies..

Btw the 2 psus don't boot up but they provide 5vsb voltage normally.

Can you tell who is the manufacturer of these units?

[370forlife]

Sirtec (Sirfa)

[goodpsusearch]

They look well made...

Is this the reason of failure (photo)?

[i4004]

doesn't the image show 5vstby section, the only portion that's actually working?

you should see if 5v reaches the smps controller (ic) and if protection ic is latched into protecton, if it exists.
ie find chips datasheets and check voltages...

[kc8adu]

only thing wrong in that pic is that dammed brown glue all over it.

[i4004]

yes, worker(with the glue) at the factory got some weird commands from superiors...hehe...
result: messy psu.

[cheese007]

Old Astec 200w PSU out of a Gateway. Manufactured on 9/17/97, and the off-brand fan is still going strong.

[weirdlookinguy]

Hey, I had one of those! Exact same off-brand fan and everything. Came out a Gateway Celeron 222 machine.

The PSU was CAKED in dust, as was the fan. But that mofo just kept chugging. I gave it a full wash in the sink with hot water and mean green, good as new.

[370forlife]

superred is actually a good fan company. Just not used often due to cost.

[ratdude747]

i got a couple p3 collers with that brand... now i know they are good.

[cheese007]

Yeah, those Gateways always have nice PSUs. They're much better built then some "400w" units, even though they're rated half that.

[momaka]

I guess I'm the only one here who dislikes Superred.
Mine came with a Macron MPT-301. PSU didn't have too much dust, but the fan was dead stuck (hard to turn even by hand). Of course that's not what bothered me. It's the fact that the plug on the back of the fan was glued/heat-pressed. Now I don't know if their other fans are like that, but they sure didn't make a good first impression.
Since I had nothing better to do that day, I drilled the plug away (it didn't look pretty). Cleaned it thoroughly, put oil, and the fan was working fine after that. If it wasn't for the crappy plug, it would have been a 5-minute job.

Nice Astec by the way. Looks ancient but definitely well built.

[cheese007]

PSU board for a Philips CD-i 910, unknown wattage, unit often goes to a light blue screen when it powers up.

I'm not sure what, but SOMETHING has got quite hot in here. Look at the sleeving on one of the primary caps! Speaking of which, all the caps are Philips. Never knew Philips had their own capacitor lineup.

Closeup of the burned area. Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if this was on fire at some point. It's a miracle it works at all!

[cheese007]

Bestec ATX 100-5, pulled out of an HP Pavillion XE 783. Caps are all JPCE-Tur, several on the secondary bulged, otherwise decently built. Fan is some Delta unit I don't feel like looking up the specs for again.

[ratdude747]

Originally Posted by cheese007

PSU board for a Philips CD-i 910, unknown wattage, unit often goes to a light blue screen when it powers up.

I'm not sure what, but SOMETHING has got quite hot in here. Look at the sleeving on one of the primary caps! Speaking of which, all the caps are Philips. Never knew Philips had their own capacitor lineup.

Closeup of the burned area. Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if this was on fire at some point. It's a miracle it works at all!

umm... the 2 caps to the far right are bloated. you might want to fix that...

explains the heat damage since a bad cap offers no ripple protection.

[cheese007]

Yeah, I'm aware of that. Probably just going to get a whole new board, that PCB is scorched to all hell and probably useless, would be better just to have a fresh unit. These things aren't exactly common either, so I don't want to screw it up with a bad soldering job.

[stj]

old philips stuff always looks like that,
new caps & a resolder will make it like new.

i'v seen it hundreds of times, all there old tv's & satellite-receivers & laserdisk units look like that.
it's because they keep putting underrated power-resistors against the board & use poor heatsinking.
you often find surfacemount semiconductors under the board too.

[etnietering]

FORTRON/SOURCE SU40P31
out of an old tape drive, a sticker said it was made in week 22 of 1992...right about when my little brother was born
here are the ratings:
+5v - 3.0A
+12v - 2.0A
-12v - 0.3A

Here's an overall shot before I recapped it. Input filter consists of a coil, 2 X caps and 2 Y caps, pretty good for a little 40W PSU:


Here's the secondary filtering side, caps are Telecon and Jenpo:


Here's a picture of the Telecon logo...anybody ever heard of them?


Here's the secondary side after I took all the caps out:


Here's the output diodes - looks like 10A each for the +5 and +12 rails, the -12 has a regular little axial diode, and the thing on the left is an SCR for...something. I don't know why it's there:


All the caps got replaced with Panny FC. 5v got a 2700uF @ 6.3v and a huge 6800uF @ 6.3v, other rails each got 2 1500uF @ 16v. A weird thing though, one of the 12v caps isn't connected to ground, but the 5v line. So, some of the ripple is passed from the 12v to the 5v, which then has to pass it to ground. I guess that's why the 5v gets a giant 12.5mm cap. I also stuck a little 100nF film cap for the 12v line into C24, which was empty. Anyway, here's the lovely new Pannys:


And here they are from the top:


And here's the whole thing. You can see the little cap on the input side I replaced. It was a Telecon 47uF @ 35v and I put in a Panny FC 47uF @ 50v:


So my plans for this are to mount it on a board or plexiglass or something and use it as a low power bench top power supply for use with my projects. The -12v would be perfect for a single fan, and that leaves me plenty of power for playing with motors and stuff It has much better output filtering than many "400W+" computer power supplies, and has a bigger main transformer than the "480W" Powmax I have...

[stj]

that's very nice, i have a similar one from a case that had a DAT drive - so a little newer.

i recommend you try to remove that glue that goes brown and carbonizes though.

[etnietering]

Well this thread has been inactive for a while - I think I'll awaken it with a new find of mine

I got 20 of these on ebay for 19 dollars. Not a bad deal, eh?
Hitek T6000PSU-540
5v - 10A
12v - 1.5A
60W max

Seems to me to be pretty good quality (especially since each one only cost a dollar!) The primary cap is a Hitachi HP3, and all the other electrolytics are NCC KY. Here's an overall shot:


It has an extremely complete input filter (better than the ones on quite a few ATX power supplies I've seen...) consisting of 2 X caps (and a spot for a third), 2 Y caps, 2 dual coils, another coil on the Hot line, a current inrush limiter, a fuse, and an MOV. One X cap is 0.1uF, and I can't read anything on the other, but it's probably 0.33uF or 0.47uF. The Y caps are 4700pF. It has a real bridge rectifier, too, which is rated for 4A @ 600v. The primary cap is 120uF @ 400v. Main switcher is a NEC 2SK2141, N channel MOSFET rated at 6A continuous, 24A pulsed, 600v. Here's a shot of the primary side:


It has 2 outputs: 5v and 12v. Makes it perfect for something that has both 5v logic and a 12v motor or something. Anyways, each output has a dual-diode pack. The 5v has a TO-247 package S30SC4M schottky, rated for 30A @ 40v (the rail is rated at 10A), and the 12v has a TO-220 package STPR1020CTP super fast, rated for 10A @ 200v (the rail is rated at 1.5A). Talk about overbuilding! Wow! Each rail also has a full PI filter. The 5v rail gets 2x NCC KY 3300uF @ 10v 12.5mm caps, and the 12v rail gets 2x NCC KY 1000uF @ 16v 10mm caps. Each also has a 100nF ceramic cap right up against the connector. Here's a picture of the secondary side:


I didn't take a picture of the bottom, but the soldering is nearly flawless. There's one part where it looks like there's a little bit too much solder, but it's not causing any problems. It has a 10 pin output connector - 2 12v's, 4 GNDs, 3 5v's, and one that's not connected. Overall, it looks like a very well made unit to me! And it comes with the IEC C14 power connector attached! Definitely good for all sorts of projects What do you guys think?