Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

[370forlife]

http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/c.html#cehtr

You mean like that? I would do a full recap on one and see if that fixes the squealing.

[pegdizzler]

Originally Posted by stj

the blue cap is probably teapo,
and as it may be built a very long time ago, the caps have probably all depolarised by now.

The lone blue-colored one on the secondary side is actually a Rubycon, sorry I didn't clarify that in the first post. It's the only one I can't read the value of yet, will have a look tomorrow.

Originally Posted by 370forlife

http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/c.html#cehtr

You mean like that? I would do a full recap on one and see if that fixes the squealing.

Yes, exactly like that. When you say full recap, are you recommending to replace the two 200v Rubys as well? Are both types of caps known to make a squealing sound?

I do see your point and agree though--I suppose after even 5 years on the shelf with no use, all of the above caps are probably of no use.

[momaka]

Originally Posted by pegdizzler

. When you say full recap, are you recommending to replace the two 200v Rubys as well?

No, you can leave the 200v caps alone. They rarely fail, even the ones from bad cap manufacturers. Highly unlikely to be the cause of the high-pitched noise, as well.

[c_hegge]

Originally Posted by momaka

...The Te Bao Metallic Plastic fans in them are actually not that bad, but they tend to seize early because they're ran at full speed.

That means they are bad. Any half decent fan should be able to run at full speed 24/7 and last several years.

[pegdizzler]

Most, if not all, of these PSUs should be working. Sooo... they belong in this thread, not the gutless PSU thread.

Basically, I've caught the "bad cap" bug--11 mobos, 3 PSUs, 3 LCD PSUs of mine, ALL with bad caps! 8 mobos, 1 PSU, and 2 LCD PSUs were a success so far, thankfully! I haven't attempted the remaining. Instead, I'm finding myself doing pre-emptive repairs on motherboards that I care about... so why not just do all the PSUs as well, if they're worth anything at least!

The main purpose is to investigate the quality of each, all things considered. I figure many here will have something to say about them, and if anything, we'll end up with a list of caps for each that could possibly help someone else out in the future.

I have over 30 PSUs ready for viewing, ought to be fun...

Have a few 750W 220V Dell server power supplies. Those are just too awesome, saving those beasts for last!

[cheese007]

Got a free with case wonder today. Namely, the 250w in this. The case itself is a God-awful mess, but that's besides the point.

This is the Athena Power APOLLO 250. Its Grey. Its SFX. Its not very good.

Label shot. Note the statement of "SFX 400 Watt switching Power Supply" below the logo, a statement contradicted by not only the specs listed on newegg, but the label itself! Off to a great start here. Some more observant readers may have noted the bulge in the case...

I think this speaks for itself, considering the rest of the case came undamaged.

SUPER FAN

Shockingly, the actual PSU itself isn't all that bad. Decent transient filter, not tiny heatsinks, and decent sized parts. One must wonder why the rating is so low on newegg then. Might have to do with the SEACON primary caps and the JINCON everything else.

[370forlife]

This one is definitely a sunpro knock-off of a RSY design.

[cheese007]

Originally Posted by 370forlife

This one is definitely a sunpro knock-off of a RSY design.

I'm guessing its still terrible though. :P

[370forlife]

RSY themselves aren't really good, but they make ok units. It might do 250W heavy on the 5v and 3.3v. This one probably has OPP as it looks like it uses a SG6105dz or similar pwm/protections chip.

[momaka]

I don't think it's a SunPro. I saw another Athena Power on this thread somewhere, and from what I remember the soldering was actually not bad either (unlike SunPro, which is just horrific).
My guess is that the lack of filtering on the secondary side is why this power supply has such low ratings. Just look at it - 3 caps for 3 rails! Sure it might give you 200W of power but with how much ripple? I'd say it will be out of spec even at 100W.

[370forlife]

AFAIK, Athena only uses two OEM's, sunpro and RSY. This one is a Sunpro saftey series MATX unit. Their saftey series actually have somewhat good build quality (as they are more recently designed, not their ancient cheapo units they still sell) Their RSY unit is this one:

http://www.szrsy.com/en/list.asp?ProdId=0010

I confirmed this with the sale rep at sunpro where a while back I claimed to be starting a power supply company and needed a OEM. I requested a sample, which would be free but I would have to pay $160 for shipping! So now if I find a unit that I suspect is a sunpro I just tell them the model number and they tell me if they OEM them or not. I also have ties at Yuelin, CWT, HEC, RSY, and solytech this way.

[shovenose]

Originally Posted by 370forlife

AFAIK, Athena only uses two OEM's, sunpro and RSY. This one is a Sunpro saftey series MATX unit. Their saftey series actually have somewhat good build quality (as they are more recently designed, not their ancient cheapo units they still sell) Their RSY unit is this one:

http://www.szrsy.com/en/list.asp?ProdId=0010

I confirmed this with the sale rep at sunpro where a while back I claimed to be starting a power supply company and needed a OEM. I requested a sample, which would be free but I would have to pay $160 for shipping! So now if I find a unit that I suspect is a sunpro I just tell them the model number and they tell me if they OEM them or not. I also have ties at Yuelin, CWT, HEC, RSY, and solytech this way.

lol

[shovenose]

liteon 250w psu. came from a compaq (hp) dualcore pc. works fine-was just bored so here are some pics:

[japlytic]

Ritmo 450W (LPJ2-20)

220uF 250V CapXon GS Series primary units.
1000uF 10V Fuhjyyu TMR Series for +5VSB, +5V and +3.3V (+3.3V unit is bulging )
1000uF 16V Fuhjyyu TNR Series for +12V.
470uF 16V Canicon units for -5V and -12V.
No output inductors for +3.3V, +5V and +5VSB.
LT1040CT rectifiers for +3.3V and +5V.
HER302 (x2) rectifier for +12V.
Four 2A rectifiers (in bridge configuration) on primary side.
MJE13007 primary transistors (main).
Non-approved Y capacitors .

Some serious corners were cut in this unit .

[goodpsusearch]

Originally Posted by japlytic

Non-approved Y capacitors .

what do you mean?

[370forlife]

They are not safety approved. Safety approved ones are typically blue or a smooth yellow. I use Y1Y2 250v, 2200pf in power supplies that don't have Y caps and are good enough to warrant the need of a transient filter.

[momaka]

Means they were not approved by a safety agency (such as UL, CSA, TUV, CE, etc.) to be used as Y caps. If I remember correctly, the difference between regular ceramic caps and Y caps is their failure mode - Y caps go open circuit, never short.

*edit*
and what he said ^

[goodpsusearch]

I learned something new again. Thanks

[Ami Sapphire]

Bestec ATX-250-12E Rev. P4 power supply

It was originally installed in a refurbished eMachines T1360 tower desktop computer my Dad bought for me and my sister in May 2003. [That computer is my home web server as of this post.] This PSU has had some very heavy use over the years until 2007, when it was installed in Mom's old Dell Dimension 8200 as a temporary replacement for a dead Dell PSU. That was for three years. It was then set aside for three months. It is now in a Pentium II computer whose motherboard had been partially recapped recently.

*Used my LG Vu CU920 phone for this, so picture quality is somewhat shot.*

[kc8adu]

better at least replace the killer cap.
its the smaller of the 2 to the left of the opto's in the last pic.
i use a 22@50 fc.