![]() |
|
|||||||
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5
|
I just found these hairy electrolyte caps on my video card, it's an AOpen Aeolus PCX6600GT-DV128.
Anyone seen anything like this before? Is it probable that recapping will get the card working again? Thx, Ramón |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Super Modulator
Join Date: Nov 2003
City & State: Αθήνα
Posts: 7,973
|
no i have not seen hairy lytics before so thanks for posting
you have a good chance the card will work again. what other caps are on the card? i see some oscon which are probably ok so you only have to replace those 3 and any other from bad companies |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 320
|
Looks like high-speed photography. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5
|
Willawake, thanks for the response! I'll check out the other caps and start looking for replacements.
Gastorgrab, what do you mean "looks like high-speed photography"? As soon I heard some crackling I drew up my camera and got this shot within 1/2000 of a second ![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: San Jose, CA
My Country: USA, Unsure of Planet
Line Voltage: 120VAC, 60Hz & 115VAC, 400Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 1,592
|
Looks like the one cap expelled some of its guts. I wonder whether that 6.3V cap was subjected to 12V, blowing up as a consequence. Maybe the VRM switch FET is shorted?
__________________
PeteS in CA Republican Operative discussion forums Where might is right There is no right. - Sophocles in "Antigone" **************************** All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; - J.R.R. Tolkien, The Fellowship of the Ring **************************** To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it. |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
City & State: New Jersey, USA
Posts: 2,292
|
Oooh the capacitor rope trick
. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 130
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Super Modulator
Join Date: Nov 2003
City & State: Αθήνα
Posts: 7,973
|
3 crap electrolytics even
![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
City & State: New Jersey, USA
Posts: 2,292
|
Maybe instead of using paper between the plates they used that twine it almost looks like seizel or however you spell it.
That stuff they weave those horrible sandpaper-like rugs from. Last edited by Krankshaft; 08-07-2007 at 11:00 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Super Modulator
Join Date: Nov 2003
City & State: Αθήνα
Posts: 7,973
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
Village Idiot
|
Did a mouse piss on it and blow it out? Did that crap get expelled from a cap on the mobo?
__________________
“It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so.” ![]() Mark Twain |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 | |
|
Approved Vendor
|
Quote:
It is works aftrer recapping for me. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 | |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2005
City & State: Halifax, NS
My Country: Canada
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Complete Noob!
Posts: 859
|
Quote:
Looks like Chaintech put "anti-recapping" features on my old video card. Though nice video card there Big Pope!
__________________
My gaming PC: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition 3.2GHz six-core processor (Socket AM3) 16GB G.SKILL Value Series DDR3-1333 RAM (4x4GB dual channel) ASUS M4A77TD motherboard XFX AMD Radeon HD6870 1GB GDDR5 PCI-Express x16 2.1 video card (HD-687A-ZHFC) 1.5TB Samsung EcoGreen F2 HD154UI SATA-II Hard Drive Antec HCG-400 400W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Power Supply Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit Antec Three Hundred mid-tower case
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 |
|
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5
|
I recapped my card and it's working again! You may sue me for bad crafting, but my copper bit wasn't able to melt the original tin solder. What kind of tin solder is this? I ended up having to rip out the bad caps using brute force, and cold soldering the new ones to the original legs.
I couldn't find caps for less than 25V (same farads as the original), that's why they're so big. Now it's back to my RC flight simulator! |
|
|
|
|
|
#15 | |
|
Approved Vendor
|
Quote:
You need to replace with 1500uF 6.3v D10x16mm, this size is fit the original very much. Higher voltage always come with bigger size. Also, you have soldered a wrong side, solder on bottom is correct. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#16 |
|
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5
|
Hi Pope.
I realize what you're saying about both size and soldering, but this is what you get when you don't have access to the right resources and the right tools. Besides, it works perfectly fine! Ramón |
|
|
|
|
|
#17 |
|
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
City & State: New Jersey, USA
Posts: 2,292
|
Yikes well let me guess this is your first time soldering or at least soldering on a multilayer board
?Well we were all there once those joints bring me back to when I was 10 soldering on my first phono plug ahhh the memories Here are some future tips: Try to keep the caps leads as low as possible the higher the leads are from the board the higher the ESR. Use alot less solder with soldering a little goes a long way especially if there are small surface mount components around that can be bridged. Also the joint shouldn't crust up like that. That means that the solder blob melted partially and resolidified without the other solder in the area melting along with it. The reason the solder on the board wouldn't melt is probably because you didn't use a high enough wattage iron. Tip cleanliness also plays a role your tip should always be clean and tinned with solder. I must admit I'm a hypocrite on the tinning part and don't do it as much as I should but I do always make sure to wipe the tip with a spounge to remove burnt flux residue. It also helps to add some solder on the bottom of the board so that your tip has more surface area to melt during cap removal. It takes patience with any multilayer board and if you want it to work afterwards it is always a slow and careful process. If the board works and doesn't give you problems congratulations .Last edited by Krankshaft; 08-14-2007 at 06:41 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#18 |
|
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5
|
I appreciate all the well ment recommendations. Now somebody please give me a new iron for my birthday, or try to do a better job with a 15W iron ; )
By the way soldering was part of my masters degree. I know how it SHOULD be done. |
|
|
|
|
|
#19 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: San Jose, CA
My Country: USA, Unsure of Planet
Line Voltage: 120VAC, 60Hz & 115VAC, 400Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 1,592
|
Perhaps the solder on the mobo is lead-free @#$%, which melts at a higher temp than tin-lead solder?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#20 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2006
City & State: Genesee County, Michigan
Posts: 882
|
Ya a 15W iron won't do well at all for that. Only thing I've ever used a 15w for is small surface mount parts. Even my 25W won't work on a motherboard. I have to use the big soldering station at work, with a 1.2mm tip.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|