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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Walterboro, SC
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 10
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Hey all... I've been looking everywhere for a solution to this but all I can find from reported issues is the 2 Second to Block issue, however that's not the problem I'm having with this 19" monitor. What happens is whenever you turn it on, it doesn't go black at all... it goes completely white. You can't access any of the OSD menus or anything. I've plugged it into a couple of other computers and still the same issue. I've attempted to change out the VGA cord and still the same problem. The computer its connected to will act as if nothing is wrong with it at all. If the comptuer goes to sleep/screen saver times out the monitor will turn off. If you wake up the comptuer the monitor comes back on but completely white screen. Has anyone else had this issue with this monitor? Is there a way to reset it back to the factory defaults with a button press sequence or something? Any help would be extremely helpful. Would hate to have to throw it away when all that needs to be done is something simple. Thanks ahead of time!
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#2 |
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Badcaps Veteran
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hello and welcome to the forum. First thing, you should look for an open fuse in the t-con board. Its a tiny smd fuse somewhere near the connector.
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#3 |
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Walterboro, SC
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 10
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My biggest problem right now is trying to open the case without damaging it. There's no screws on the back of it and it's all snapped together... can't quite figure out how to open it without damaging the outer case. Any suggestions?
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#4 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 13,671
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You need to use a butter knife or flat headed screwdriver to prise the tabs around the edge of the case.
__________________
** Begin Signature ** I fix TVs and electronics as a hobby and to save nice things from the dump. 40 LCD TVs, 4 monitors, 13 plasma TVs, and a 6.1 system! Free service manuals database: http://www.tgohome.com/ServiceManuals - Have a manual? Need a manual? Please PM me. I have successfully fixed (from best --> worst build quality): 3 Panasonic Plasmas, 1 Yamaha HTS, 1 NEC Plasma, 2 Sharp LCDs, 2 Toshiba LCDs, 5 Philips Plasma/LCD, 1 Hitachi Plasma, 5 LG LCD/Plasma, 10 Samsung LCD/Plasma, 1 Thomson Plasma, 1 Atec LCD, 1 Hanspree LCD, 1 Xerox LCD, 1 Harwa LCD, 2 Proview LCD, 2 Hyundai LCD, 1 "Onn" LCD, 1 Dell LCD, 1 iiyama LCD, 1 Logik LCD, 5 Bush LCD, 10 Vestel LCDs [Please do not PM me for help: I am a busy student, and we prefer input from all sides on this forum.] |
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#5 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Harrogate UK
Posts: 870
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I suugest you put your fingers under EITHER the top or bottom of the surround, gently pull outwards ,and you will find one of them will release enough to allow you to work around the monitor as tom66 advises.
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#6 |
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Walterboro, SC
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 10
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#7 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Harrogate UK
Posts: 870
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How do we look at that photo ??///use Go advanced and manage attachments please..
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#8 |
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Walterboro, SC
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 10
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The prior pics should have been viewable but this time I attached them... hopefully this will explain. The first image shows the rivets pointed out with the bklue arrws and the 4 outer screws in red arrows. (Figured out the problem with the images... forgot to convert them from direct from camera)
Last edited by Lrdsatyr8; 09-24-2012 at 02:53 PM.. |
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#9 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 13,671
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Oh my. It looks like they've completely sealed it as if to make it completely unserviceable...
![]() Never seen that before. ![]() |
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#10 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: California
Posts: 1,709
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On your first photo, you have 4 orange arrows pointing at screws or rivets?
That cover looks like one whole unit that may be screwed onto the LCD panel itself. Check along the outer perimeter of the cover for screws. |
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#11 |
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Walterboro, SC
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 10
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The 4 orange arrows point to 4 screws holding the front plastic cover on... none of them actually hold the metal casing together. I've never seen this before.
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#12 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Harrogate UK
Posts: 870
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Some Tvs have screws behind the plastic surround, which could be worth looking at.
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#13 |
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Walterboro, SC
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 10
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Well.. I finally got this puppy open and got to the circut boards. The first two pics are the power board and the second are the main board. I checked the fuse and now problems there. I also used my multimeter on the back of the power board near the fuse and found no problems there either with any of the smd's. Still trying to figure out what might be happening here. BTW - You were right about the screws on the side after removing the the ones that hold the plastic cover on... I find kinda dumb now! LOL
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#14 |
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Walterboro, SC
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 10
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That should read "no problems there"
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#15 |
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Walterboro, SC
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 10
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I hope those pics were good enough... I can't find any blown fuse or capacitor... any help would be appreciated!
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#16 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 13,671
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Here are the voltage regulators on the main board.
Test according to: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...372#post266372 |
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#17 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 3,181
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Now that you have it opened, there should be another board under a thin metal cover on the top of the monitor - this is the t-con board. On it, you will see a small SMD fuse near the connector, usually marked Fx or similar (where x is a number).
Can't find it yet??? Let's use this pictures as a reference: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...9&d=1348777759 follow the thin ribbon cable at the bottom of the board, and this will lead you straight to the t-con board. |
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#18 |
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Walterboro, SC
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 10
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Ok... I did finally get to the T-Con board... and sure enough, there was a fuse (F1) that was blown. However, I attempted to jump it and now I don't get anything but a flashing power light.
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#19 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,038
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That mean there is a bad short on the T-CON board and proably loading down the 5V power supply. You should disconnecting the ribbon cable to the T-CON then the monitor should turn back on with just white/gray glowing screen, and hopefully it did not damaged the switched transistor on the main baord that supplies the power to the T-CON fuse that is bypassed.
__________________
Never stop learning or per Greek Pro "when you will update your ID from Knowledge Seeker to a Pro (in 10 years) , then I will take you more seriously, for now you are just a kid playing with it keyboard" Baisc LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
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#20 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 3,181
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Quote:
![]() That's a fine way to blow something else too. Folks, I will repeat this so that hopefully other people reading the forums won't be doing this mistake anymore: IF A FUSE ON YOUR T-CON IS BLOWN, DO NOT JUMPER, BYPASS, OR SOLDER ACROSS IT WITH WIRE OR HIGHER RATED FUSE! @ Lrdsatyr8: most likely you have a shorted ceramic cap on the main boosted voltage rail. Post some pictures of the t-con so we can start troubleshooting it. ... and remove that jump across the fuse, please. Last edited by momaka; 10-21-2012 at 11:21 AM.. |
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