![]() |
|
|||||||
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
City & State: Ireland
My Country: Ireland
Line Voltage: 240V AC, 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 146
|
Picked up one of these recently, has an AE-6B chassis. Works fine, although the colours seem to be a bit off, don't seem to be as vibrant as I would have expected, so I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with these sets, and is there anything I can do to improve the colours?
When I adjust the colour, I can get it on the scale to go from B&W to completely exaggerated colours, but somewhere in the middle where you would expect it to be ok, they just don't look right, so maybe it's an issue also involving the contrast and brightness. It's hard to explain, not sure if photos would help. I mean, greens look green, and reds look red, but it's hard to get an overall satisfactory picture through the adjustments. Whilst some of the background colours may be ok at one setting, skin tones look a bit pale, for example. In the service menu, I can see that there are nearly 27,000 hours on the set, so possibly the tube is the problem here? I can post pictures if anyone thinks they would help. I have another 21" CRT or a 26" LCD that I can post comparison pictures of the same feed, or what is the best way to take them? |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
On my level
|
Yes. An aged tube will behave like you described. You're going to have to live with it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
City & State: Ireland
My Country: Ireland
Line Voltage: 240V AC, 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 146
|
Thanks, I was thinking it might be that alright. I was watching a film the other night, but found myself thinking that the picture was quite acceptable, not sure if it's because I'm getting used to it, or maybe the colours are improving after the set being on for a while.
Anyway, one thing I've noticed (particularly when there is an on-screen banner towards the bottom of the screen), is that the lower right corner of the picture seems to drop slightly. When I go into the service menu, there are a lot of options in the "Geometry" submenu, so I'm wondering what menu item I should be looking for to try and correct this? The picture was a little big also, and I can see options like VSIZE and HSIZE for adjusting these, but I'm wondering if there is somewhere where I can find out what all the variables mean, like AFC BOW, AFC ANGLE, PIN AMP, etc. I've written down all the names and their current values, but are there some I shouldn't touch? Finally, is there any good resources for how to set up these types of TVs, like what to use as an input for setup (or is more specialised equipment needed), and how to approach getting the optimal settings, like which variable to start with? For instance, in the "Service" submenu, I can see values for "SUB COL", "SUB HUE", sharp, bright, cont, and RGB drives and cutoffs. Where can I get some good information on what these mean/do. I'm afraid to muck about with any settings really unless I mess it up completely. I did get the service manual for the set, but it has no details like what I'm looking for. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |||
|
On my level
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Anyway. Here's what i would do. I see this is a standard def (non HD) set. Get yourself a copy of the Avia Calibration Disc and pop it into your DVD player. That disc has every service pattern you need on it. Now for what you want to tweak. First lower HSIZE and VSIZE so that the set underscans and you can see the edges of the picture. Start with the "brightness and contrast" pattern and follow the instructions on the disc. Next apply a crosshatch pattern and do geometry. Finally, go to the Overscan Bounce pattern and set picture dimensions/positions so that the overscan level is as low as possible, but not low enough that it underscans when brightness changes. A word of warning: Some DVD players have an offset to the picture, and the H position will be wrong. Double check this with TV program material afterwards. Of course, if you mainly use it for watching DVDs, then don't worry about it. If the colors still seem a bit off after you've completed the other adjustments, you can mess with the cutoffs, but it's complicated. I'll try to explain later if you need it. |
|||
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 80
|
the correct way to set the colour is first use colour control to turn colour to minimum
next adjust contrast and brightness for a perfect black and white picture when you have that right bring in the colour till it is as you like it best domne on an outside broadcast like horse racing. |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
City & State: Ireland
My Country: Ireland
Line Voltage: 240V AC, 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 146
|
Thanks for the replies guys, it took me a couple of days to get the Avia disk, but I have one now, and playing around with that. I have a feeling the warmup period is important, maybe I wasn't waiting long enough initially, and maybe the components are taking longer than normal to get up to good working temperature, given their age. Or maybe I'm just getting used to it. Either way, I'm happy enough with it for now.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
City & State: Washington
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,160
|
Kind of off topic but I didn't know you could check running hours on a tube TV. How do you do that?!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
City & State: Ireland
My Country: Ireland
Line Voltage: 240V AC, 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 146
|
It's fairly easy to see on this set at least...
Put the RC into service mode, call up the service menu, go to the "Error Menu" submenu, and the info is displayed at the bottom as "Running Time" in hours and minutes. |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|