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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#21 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 6,970
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Is there a plug at the end of the grey/red cables (two greys and one red) on the power supply board to the main board, they are the secondary side of the winding of the transformer, if you can disconnect the cables then you can install the transformer back in and power up and it will not have any load on the secondary side if we disconnect the grey/red cables.
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Never stop learning or per Greek Pro "when you will update your ID from Knowledge Seeker to a Pro (in 10 years) , then I will take you more seriously, for now you are just a kid playing with it keyboard" Baisc LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
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#22 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Kent
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 240v AC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 46
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Quote:
I have removed these connections leaving just the yellow and black wires connected (highlighted in purple) Transformer has been soldered back in and is still buzzing unfortunately ![]()
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Fixed so far: GNR TS902W monitor Last edited by quattro alex; 06-05-2012 at 10:24 AM.. |
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#23 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Kent
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 240v AC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 46
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#24 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2006
City & State: Near Cincinnati, OH
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
Posts: 704
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^ Looks like it might work but being a spray does it come with a straw or else you have one that will fit? It needs some way to get into the tight areas for highest likelihood of success. Might work without a straw if you take off the copper belly band and the steel wrap around the core to apply it, then spray again after the steel wrap is put back on (or leave it off).
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#25 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240v-120v 60Hz 200A service drop
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,959
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Did you test the big filter caps and replace any bad ones?
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Hi-pot test: FAIL |
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#26 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 6,970
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You mat as well take a reading of the voltage of the secondary side so you will know what the AC output voltage is if you need to get the new transformer.
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#27 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Kent
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 240v AC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 46
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Quote:
I have just picked up some PCB lacquer from maplins so I will have a go at the transformer this evening. I will also take some voltage measurements from the secondary side aswell. |
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#28 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Kent
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 240v AC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 46
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Ok so I've removed the steel outer band to reveal the copper belly band, and you can see from the photo that the joint is already cracking. I have also removed the plastic cover around the copper coils.
I am assuming I can get spraying at the copper coil section and then once dry reinstall the plastic cover and copper belly and finally the outer metal band and then spray those components as well? |
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#29 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2006
City & State: Near Cincinnati, OH
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
Posts: 704
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^ Yes. Also spray the core laminations, around the perimeter, in the holes, in the slight gaps on the sides of the coils. I'd probably put some masking tape or similar over the pins on the bottom so you don't have lacquer to clean off, though some types allow soldering still, it just burns or melts off when soldering.
Be sure to put a lot on, enough that it's dripping off and really saturating the coils. Once dry, decide if it needs another coat. It may take a long time to dry, if the air dry type then a fan may speed that up or you might want to leave it outside as it may stink from fumes. It may be difficult to get the copper belly band soldered back together again, I suspect a pencil torch would work as well as a soldering iron unless it's a quite powerful iron... but might as well try an iron first. Last edited by 999999999; 06-07-2012 at 11:31 AM.. |
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#30 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Kent
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 240v AC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 46
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999999999 - Thank you for your advice - it gave me the confidence to go ahead. I used the nozzle from an air spray can with a straw and directed it into all the nooks and crannies and used copious amounts. I repeated this process 3 times allowing time to cure in between coats.
The copper belly band was quite difficult as it was soaking up all the heat from the iron, but I got there in the end. Unfortunately I couldn't get the external banding to fit tightly so I used some electrical tape around instead. Anyway the end result is a silent transformer! My colleague has tested it and he is delighted - he thought it wasn't working initially as he was so used to noises when switching the unit on. Thank you to everyone who's helped me in this post. |
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