![]() |
|
|||||||
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#21 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
Thank you budm for your help, but the big question still remains unanswered.
Do I need it? |
|
|
|
|
|
#22 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,016
|
You will need it if you want to see: the SMPS output drive is putting out, if the switching transformer is putting out the signal (typical AC meter will not have enough bandwitdth to measure AC in 30k~100KHz), AC ripple at the power supply DC output, Video signal, LVDS, clock signals, etc. I would say yes if you are want to really dig deep into the troubleshooting world. But like I said, play with it at your work place first to get use to how to operate it and what you should see and what the waveform of all kind of signals look like, etc.
__________________
Never stop learning or per Greek Pro "when you will update your ID from Knowledge Seeker to a Pro (in 10 years) , then I will take you more seriously, for now you are just a kid playing with it keyboard" Baisc LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
|
|
|
|
|
#23 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
OK, I have purchased the Rigol DS1052E for $314 shipped which soon will be a 100MHz scope
![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#24 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
Here is a video about the hack:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnhXfVYWYXE There is a forum called eevblog where they talk about this mod. |
|
|
|
|
|
#25 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
OK, I couldn't wait for Ebay. I had to have one, do you know how it is
![]() I have purchased a Fluke 87-5 from Amazon(VIPMART) for $250(!!). I have called the guy and he confirmed that it's indeed is new and comes with the full manufacturer's warranty. There is a promotion going on now at Fluke. Here is the link: http://support.fluke.com/find-sales/...06_ENG_A_W.PDF I have selected the bag. Hats I'm not wearing, I'm not electrician, so I don't need those magnetic holders and flashlight I have. I have got the Rigol scope and successfully converted it to a 100MHz scope! Very easy, just downgrade the firmware, run a tool which changes the model and serial number and upgrade the firmware and it's done. |
|
|
|
|
|
#26 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,016
|
Another thing you should have is the Isolation transformer, do not use your new scope on the Hot side of the circuits withouit having what ever your arfe working on powered by the Isolation transformer! otherwise you will blow up your scope and the bridge rectifiers, and etc. in the hot side of the circuits since your scope probe ground is more likely to be connected to the scope power cord ground prong.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#27 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
Thank you, for letting me know. I will look into it.
By the way, thet Vizio PS acts the same way when it's in the TV. 24V, 3.3V comes on(don't remember the 12V what it does) for a second and drops down. |
|
|
|
|
|
#28 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,016
|
Without having the inverter boards attached?
Last edited by budm; 04-27-2012 at 10:34 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#29 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
yes. it's something with the PS, but I can't figure it out what went out.
I try to understand this PS. The big transformer gets one voltage from the primary and transforms it into two on the secondary? Soon I will get the ESR meter and I will check all the capacitors to make sure that they are all OK. It seems that the 24V does not have enough juice and the 12V has to much. |
|
|
|
|
|
#30 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,016
|
"The big transformer gets one voltage from the primary and transforms it into two on the secondary"
Yes, that is correct, there are two secondary windings, one fo the 12v and one for the 24V. I still cannot see how you can have much higher12V output, but not the 24v output since they are generated by the same transformer which it will affect both outputs. There must be open Ground return connections some where. |
|
|
|
|
|
#31 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
Both are higher, 13.3V and 26.6V, basically it's exactly doubled the 13.3V.
The 13.3V under load goes higher and the 24V under load drops to I guess to 0V(never waited because it goes down slowly. |
|
|
|
|
|
#32 | |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 13,621
|
Quote:
__________________
** Begin Signature ** I fix TVs and electronics as a hobby and to save nice things from the dump. 40 LCD TVs, 4 monitors, 13 plasma TVs, and a 6.1 system! Free service manuals database: http://www.tgohome.com/ServiceManuals - Have a manual? Need a manual? Please PM me. I have successfully fixed (from best --> worst build quality): 3 Panasonic Plasmas, 1 Yamaha HTS, 1 NEC Plasma, 2 Sharp LCDs, 2 Toshiba LCDs, 5 Philips Plasma/LCD, 1 Hitachi Plasma, 5 LG LCD/Plasma, 10 Samsung LCD/Plasma, 1 Thomson Plasma, 1 Atec LCD, 1 Hanspree LCD, 1 Xerox LCD, 1 Harwa LCD, 2 Proview LCD, 2 Hyundai LCD, 1 "Onn" LCD, 1 Dell LCD, 1 iiyama LCD, 1 Logik LCD, 5 Bush LCD, 10 Vestel LCDs [Please do not PM me for help: I am a busy student, and we prefer input from all sides on this forum.] |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#33 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,016
|
That does not make sense since the primary circuits is still driving otherwise you will not have the 12v output on the 12v winding, so it means that the 24v winding must still be putting out the AC but the rectifiers are not. You can use your new scope to look at the 24v output winding.
But you ar saying that the 12v under load the out put gets higher also and it stays like that? Check the ground traces of the 12v and the 24v section, when you mount the board into the chassis, see if the 12v ground is still connected to the 24v ground. Also measure the DC of the 12v ground pin and the chassis, and also 24v ground pin and the chassis. |
|
|
|
|
|
#34 | |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2010
City & State: Canada
Posts: 8,078
|
Quote:
![]()
__________________
--- begin sig file --- If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post. We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings. Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages. --- end sig file --- |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#35 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
Why not buy it from Amazon US then?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#36 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#37 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2010
City & State: Canada
Posts: 8,078
|
1) Amazon.com says for the Fluke 87V
Shipping: Currently, item can be shipped only within the U.S. and to APO/FPO addresses. 2) There is also the question of warranty. Typically, most Canadian HQ will NOT provide warranty unless it is purchased in Canada from an authorized dealer. As a Canadian, buying a new Fluke 87V from an authorized USA Fluke dealer is considered "gray market"/invalid when it comes to warrany claims. 3) The above is also common "practice" for TVs, cars, PCs, etc. 4) Right now, I have more multimeters than what I need, but I'm willing to get an Fluke 87V or 87IV or 89IV at the right price. ![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#38 | |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2010
City & State: Canada
Posts: 8,078
|
Quote:
ABSOLUTELY NO INTERNATIONAL BIDS will be accepted (including Canada) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#39 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
City & State: Monrovia, CA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,143
|
I haven't checked that. Sorry.
Your right, I forgot about the warranty. Maybe for this price you could trust the meter and you could lose the warranty. |
|
|
|
|
|
#40 |
|
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2012
City & State: England
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 521
|
That fluke is looking like it will go cheap. Get Budm to buy it for you.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|