Toshibia 40rv525u Green Blinking light and questions about Caps!!

[tom66]

Use this mode and retest the diodes.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

Ok I am not sure how to measure ohms properly, I thought I recall younot being able to hold in onthere for too long

With power off and device unplugged, you can measure resistance for as long as you want. You never measure resistance with power on. See this thread for why.

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=207859

If you are measuring amps, some multimeters caution that you can't measure for more than xyz seconds (typically 15 seconds). Some really cheap multimeters don't have fuses on the amps jack. Remember, we typically never require an amps measurement in 99.99% cases.

The biggest problem newbies have with multimeters is the interpretation of the results. They get confused with "1", "0L", and report "no reading". This is especially apparent when asking them to check for a shorted component.

tom66 is quick learner wrt to dealing with newbies. He now writes his multimeter responses in similar fashion to mine. I know he participates in other forums where people have more experience and he would never write responses in that fashion.

[ComputerGeek]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

With power off and device unplugged, you can measure resistance for as long as you want. You never measure resistance with power on. See this thread for why.

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=207859

If you are measuring amps, some multimeters caution that you can't measure for more than xyz seconds (typically 15 seconds). Some really cheap multimeters don't have fuses on the amps jack. Remember, we typically never require an amps measurement in 99.99% cases.

The biggest problem newbies have with multimeters is the interpretation of the results. They get confused with "1", "0L", and report "no reading". This is especially apparent when asking them to check for a shorted component.

tom66 is quick learner wrt to dealing with newbies. He now writes his multimeter responses in similar fashion to mine. I know he participates in other forums where people have more experience and he would never write responses in that fashion.

I notice though that when I hold the probes on a resistor or something similar the resistance starts going down, I believe because the component gets Saturated with the test voltage, Am I incorrect in thinking this?

When do I take the reading when the Number stops moving, when I first put it on?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by tom66

Use this mode and retest the diodes.

So is this what you want me to test?

So do 12 tests on each one is that correct? Do the 6 I did but then switch leads like

D203 Top in Picture,

R1-2B,
R1-3B,
R2-1B,
R2-3B,
R3-1B,
R3-2B,

B1-2R,
B1-3R,
B2-1R,
B2-3R,
B3-1R,
B3-2R,

B=Black Probe, R= Red Probe

Is That Right?

[ComputerGeek]

Also, when I do keep it on there it goes out of the 2k ohm range what should I do?

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

I notice though that when I hold the probes on a resistor or something similar the resistance starts going down,

In circuit readings are not accurate due to other surrounding components. If you take a resistor and measure it out of circuit, a good multimeter will find display a correct and stable reading in about 1 second or less.

[ComputerGeek]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

In circuit readings are not accurate due to other surrounding components. If you take a resistor and measure it out of circuit, a good multimeter will find display a correct and stable reading in about 1 second or less.

Yeah I usually test out of the circuit, I don't know were I got that info from Probably my uncle. Anyway, I just tried it again and it worked fine.

^^^Is the post above correct or my thoughts on testing?

[retiredcaps]

For a diode that looks like this -><-, think of two separate diodes in physical package.

Pin 1 is left, pin 2 is the middle, pin 3 is right. Set your multimeter on diode test. Measure

Black on pin 1, red on pin 2. Record reading.
Red on pin 1, black on pin 2. Record reading.

Black on pin 2, red on pin 3. Record reading.
Red on pin 2, black on pin 3. Record reading.

Thus, you will have 4 readings for these types of diodes which makes sense if you think of them as two separate "normal" diodes.

[ComputerGeek]

OK, Here goes,

D203
b1-r2 1422
r1-b2 177
b2-r3 177
r2-b3 1422

D202
b1-r2 quick beep then starts at 1000 then climbs out of range
r1-b2 230
b2-r3 230
r2-b3 quick beep then starts at 1000 then climbs out of range

D201
b1-r2 quick beep then starts at 1000 then climbs out of range
r1-b2 quick beep then stays at 230
b2-r3 quick beep then stays at 230
r2-b3 quick beep then starts at 1000 then climbs out of range

[ComputerGeek]

This is the order I did them in.

Thanks!

[retiredcaps]

D201, D202, and D203 all test okay according to your measurements.

[retiredcaps]

In re-reading post @29, tom66 wants pins 1-3 and vice versa 3-1 tested as well.

So add the following readings for all 3 diodes.

black on pin 1, red on 3
red on pin 1, black on 3.

[ComputerGeek]

Ok here you are,

D203
b1-r3 Connected Beeps
r1-b3 Connected Beeps

D202
b1-r3 Connected Beeps
r1-b3 Connected Beeps

D201
b1-r3 Connected Beeps
r1-b3 Connected Beeps

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

D203
b1-r3 Connected Beeps

What does connected beeps mean? What is the actual reading on the display?

[ComputerGeek]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

What does connected beeps mean? What is the actual reading on the display?

Sorry wasn't clear The meter just makes a constant beep like when you touch the probes together. The reading is 001 Thanks!

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

The reading is 001 Thanks!

The reason I'm so picky is that diode/continuity varies greatly on multimeters. Some cheap multimeters will beep "continuous" if the resistance is less than 1800 ohms. Most, however, will beep "continuous" for less than 50 ohms.

So reporting a beep leaves us guessing as to what the real measurement is.

Same goes for the voltage used on diode testing. Some show "0L" or "1" when voltage goes over 2 V. Others use 3 V for the threshold.

[ComputerGeek]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

The reason I'm so picky is that diode/continuity varies greatly on multimeters. Some cheap multimeters will beep "continuous" if the resistance is less than 1800 ohms. Most, however, will beep "continuous" for less than 50 ohms.

So reporting a beep leaves us guessing as to what the real measurement is.

Same goes for the voltage used on diode testing. Some show "0L" or "1" when voltage goes over 2 V. Others use 3 V for the threshold.

Ok No Problem I understand, I have Been using the Craftsman Meter BTW

Now what?

Thanks!

[ComputerGeek]

What Should I do now?

[tom66]

The readings you show are most likely good for the PSU.

Post a close up of the connector going from the main board to PSU, on both ends. If there is a label next to the connector, make it easy to see in the picture. We have not established if PSON is good.

[ComputerGeek]

Sorry for the delay in Responding, Here are the Pictures the only label is on the power board and the pin out is,

1,2 Gnd
3,4 24v+
5,6,7 Gnd
8,9 12v+
10,11,12 5v+
13 Pwr
14 ACD
15 D1m
16 Inv

[tom66]

Check the Pwr pin.