Toshibia 40rv525u Green Blinking light and questions about Caps!!

[ComputerGeek]

Hello, I Need a little help with a problem i am having with a Toshiba 40rv525u Lcd Tv. When I hit the power button the Green light on the front flashes, I did not see any order with the flashes, just pretty much on 2 seconds, off 2 seconds. so I pulled it all apart and took a look around. I did really notice any thing strange except the possibly of a couple caps being slightly raised on the main power board. I was going to replace those and I just wanted a second opinion if I should Replace any others.

I also, had a couple Capacitors Questions,

Someone said I had to Use low ESR Caps for this, Is this True? Someone Else, said that they just need to be High Tempature. Who's Right?

What is the Difference Between Low ESR and Regular Caps? And how do I tell them apart? When would you need to use one over the other?

And, Finally since the shipping cost a bit for getting these here I would like to know some of the common sizes that I should buy to keep on hand to Fix things with? I relize that this varies greatly but just what you guys have experienced.

P.S. Sorry for the Fair Pictures my good digital broke so I was using a backup, let me know and I'll get some better one's if you need them.

Louis

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

I was going to replace those and I just wanted a second opinion if I should Replace any others.

--- standard answer below ---

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...84&postcount=3

And, Finally since the shipping cost a bit for getting these here I would like to know some of the common sizes that I should buy to keep on hand to Fix things with?

If you are in the USA, shipping from digikey is only around $2.75 USD with USPS 1st class mail and you get the caps in about 48 hours.

[retiredcaps]

Wrt to some of your other questions, see PCBONEZ talk about caps

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...30&postcount=7

[retiredcaps]

Before you replace caps, have you checked any voltages?

[ComputerGeek]

Hey Thanks for the reading, it helped a lot with Some of the Questions I had, I still had a few Questions though.

Do I need to use low ESR Caps or just High Tempature?

So from the other post you linked to there really isn't a way to tell the esr of a cap unless you have the data sheet, or a tester correct? I mean they don't stamp this on them unless I am missing something, Right?

Also, I am assuming that I don't need to change the two big caps on the Primary Side? What about the Film one's?

I see a couple of caps are Rubycon's, not sure about the rest is there somewhere you know of that has the logo's of the different Cap Company's?

About Shipping I have trouble with getting a smaller order quantity on my last order with digikey and ended up going with mouser but they charged me ten bucks to get a box that weighed 4oz I was really Mad! What do you guys do if you can't find a Cap with a low min quantity on digikey?

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

Before you replace caps, have you checked any voltages?

Not yet I just saw the couple popped caps and went maybe there's hope. I also wasn't sure that I could get a reading out of it since it seems to come on and off so quick. Or if I took the load off if that it would make and difference.

I should mention that I have another tv that I believe may have the same power board, however I did not really want to pull it apart and I don't want to fry the power board on the good one if something is really messed up on this one. So this is a last resort.

A Big Thanks to you RetiredCaps you helped me once before and I just Want to say Thanks! I know everyone appreciates what you do on this Fourm. Thanks!

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

Do I need to use low ESR Caps or just High Tempature?

The application dictates what you use? In general, a SMPS requires low ESR caps. Some applications use general purpose because low ESR caps are not required.

The cap's temperature rating has nothing do with how the circuit works.

So from the other post you linked to there really isn't a way to tell the esr of a cap unless you have the data sheet, or a tester correct? I mean they don't stamp this on them unless I am missing something, Right?

Correct. Identify the caps and series and then look up the datasheet.

Also, I am assuming that I don't need to change the two big caps on the Primary Side? What about the Film one's?

The big caps rarely, but not never, fail. The film caps rarely fail.

I see a couple of caps are Rubycon's, not sure about the rest is there somewhere you know of that has the logo's of the different Cap Company's?

You can post pictures and we can try to id them.

What do you guys do if you can't find a Cap with a low min quantity on digikey?

There are many suitable alternatives caps in this list

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2280

Not yet I just saw the couple popped caps and went maybe there's hope.

If the caps are obviously bloated, then change them before doing voltage readings.

[ComputerGeek]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

The application dictates what you use? In general, a SMPS requires low ESR caps. Some applications use general purpose because low ESR caps are not required.

The cap's temperature rating has nothing do with how the circuit works.



Correct. Identify the caps and series and then look up the datasheet.



The big caps rarely, but not never, fail. The film caps rarely fail.



You can post pictures and we can try to id them.



There are many suitable alternatives caps in this list

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2280



If the caps are obviously bloated, then change them before doing voltage readings.

Thanks! Am am not sure if I have a Switching Mode Power Supply how do I tell that sort of thing?

I just ID'ed the Caps they are Nippon capacitors possibly Ky Series 105C How are these in General? What is suggested as a replacement?
one is a 1000uf 25v
and the other Three are 1000uf 35v
I was thinking of leaving the 1500uf 10v Rubycon's since they look fine. Would you suggest otherwise?
But I was going to replace the other small Nippon's just for saftey, unless you don't think I need to.
They are all Nippon Ky Series, 10uf 50v , 22uf 50v , 47uf 25v , and two 100uf 25v caps.

They aren't really noticeably that bloated, I mean I have seen a lot worse, but when you run your finger over them they are up a little. do you still think I should Replace First?

Thanks!

[ComputerGeek]

Are Nippon and United Chemi-con the same company? Judging by the logo?

If so should I replace with the samething or go for something else?


I would like to know some of the common sizes that I should buy to keep on hand to Fix things with? I relize that this varies greatly but just what you guys have experienced.

I take it that you think that this is not a good idea and that I should Order on a case by case Basis? Thanks!

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

Am am not sure if I have a Switching Mode Power Supply how do I tell that sort of thing?

Almost everything electronic today has SMPS. Virtually all TVs have a SMPS. Your TV has a SMPS.

I just ID'ed the Caps they are Nippon capacitors possibly Ky Series 105C How are these in General?

Nippon Chemi-con are usually brown caps with a "crown" symbol. KY is a good series. KY are normally used in a lot of higher end ATX power supplies. The KZG caps (usually found on motherboards) are crap because they bloat due to heat. I believe they overfilled the KZG caps with too much something.

Rubycons are generally good.

If none of them appear obviously bloated, then I would start taking voltage measurements. They still could have high ESR, but let's start with voltage measurements.

On the power board, there is a legend (P802 I think). List the legend and your DC voltage readings. For example

Legend My reading
GND 0.0V
12V 11.99

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

Are Nippon and United Chemi-con the same company?

Yes, same company.

[ComputerGeek]

OK only two of the 1000uf 35v and the one 1000uf 25v seems like they might be slightly raised.

OK I have three legends p802 goes to the video/main board.

1,2 Gnd
3,4 24v+
5,6,7 Gnd
8,9 12v+
10,11,12 5v+
13 Pwr
14 ACD
15 D1m
16 Inv

Ok next the legend p803 goes out to the Inverter board. Pin out starting with one is as follows.

1,2,3,4,5 +24v
6,7,8,9,10 GND
11 N. C
12 INV
13 D1 M
14 N. C

And 120v in on P801.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

OK only two of the 1000uf 35v and the one 1000uf 25v seems like they might be slightly raised.

Mark up your power picture and circle which ones you think are bloated. Use this pic.

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...7&d=1325986760

OK I have three legends p802 goes to the video/main board.

Okay, now use your multimeter to measure each pin on p802 and p803 (don't need p801) and report the results. If you have a manual range multimeter, you may need to switch to a higher DC V setting to measure 24 VDC.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

I would like to know some of the common sizes that I should buy to keep on hand to Fix things with?

When you make edits, sometimes I don't see them. I don't normally re-read a post I have already read.

Your question about stock has been answered a few times on here.

http://badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=203747

[ComputerGeek]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

Mark up your power picture and circle which ones you think are bloated. Use this pic.

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...7&d=1325986760



Okay, now use your multimeter to measure each pin on p802 and p803 (don't need p801) and report the results. If you have a manual range multimeter, you may need to switch to a higher DC V setting to measure 24 VDC.

OK getting the Pic Circled

I should take all measurements off Ground with the Boards Connected, Correct?

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

I should take all measurements off Ground with the Boards Connected, Correct?

Connect all your boards. Your black probe should be a ground screw on the power board. I usually use the ground screw that is closest to what I want to measure. Your red probe goes onto each pin. Be careful and don't let the red probe slip otherwise you could $hort out $omething.

[ComputerGeek]

Ok the one with the Arrow looks fine, and I was using that as a reference for the others.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by ComputerGeek

Ok the one with the Arrow looks fine, and I was using that as a reference for the others.

They look fine to me.

[ComputerGeek]

OK the voltage is really hard to measure since its just a pulse on, but they are as follows

OK I have three legends p802 goes to the video/main board.

1,2 Gnd --- 0.01
3,4 24v+ --- possibly a pulse not measurable
5,6,7 Gnd --- 0.00
8,9 12v+ --- possibly a pulse not measurable
10,11,12 5v+ --- 5.07
13 Pwr --- 2.6 pulse
14 ACD --- 2.6 pulse
15 D1m --- possibly a pulse not measurable
16 Inv --- possibly a pulse not measurable

Ok next the legend p803 goes out to the Inverter board. Pin out starting with one is as follows.

1,2,3,4,5 +24v --- nothing maybe a pulse?
6,7,8,9,10 GND --- 0.00
11 N. C nothing
12 INV a pulse not measurable
13 D1 M a pulse not measurable
14 N. C nothing

Also bear in mind that pins 11 an 14 on p803 are not connected to the inverted board. And pin 10 is not connected to the video board on p802

[ComputerGeek]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

They look fine to me.

Well they fell slightly rasied when you run your finger across them.

[ComputerGeek]

Do you want me to disconnect the Inverter so there is not a load and ReTest?