Samsung LNT4669FX/XXA dark on one side

[Horty24]

Ok so i have the tv staying dark on one side once I turn it on. I checked power supply and found no bad caps. I have seen people with the same problem but no definite answers. Is there something else i should be checking? Any help would be appreciated.

[Horty24]

Here are pics of the tv boards. Maybe im not seeing something.

[Horty24]

Does anyine think it could be the left inverter board? Is there a wya to check it?
Any help is appreciated.

[Horty24]

Ok so turned on the tv today and now it's flickering. Did some more searching and found that the tcon board might be the culprit. Any thoughts?

[Horty24]

Anyone? Could it be the ribbon coming loose at the LCD and not the Tcon board?

[py3m4n]

Your research is pointing you in the right direction. It is very likely your T-CON that is the problem. Now it's time for you to chose whether to pay out for a replacement T-CON, unless you are able to fault find the problem on a component level.

Make sure to double check your LVDS cable connections on your T-CON. You don't want to be going out buying a new board when it could just have been a badly seated cable or intermittent damaged cable that was causing the problem, unlikely, but always worth double checking.

If your talking about the TCP or TAB connections on the panel itself when you mention the ribbon, then no, this wouldn't be a symptom you would get of those failing.

[Horty24]

OK great py3m4n THANKS, let me check the LVDS connections. I know i can get a Tcon board for about 35 shipped. But Ill try the re-seat and see what happens.
In advance, Sorry to post pics in the wrong format. For some reason I cant edit the post.

[Horty24]

OK just reseated the LVDS at the T-con. It defiently has something to do with it. It acts really weird when I unseat/reaset them around. Im still getting the same flickering and some darkness but in different patterns as I reseat them. Im thinking its got to be the T-con board. or the LVDS cables. Ill try a new T-con board and see what happens.

[Horty24]

OK so I took of the T-con board and here are some things I found.
Seems like some kind of fluid on the processor? Maybe glue? Maybe something leaking? I dont know. There was a grey foam between the tcon and the back panel so maybe its glue??
Also around the chip on pic shown looks like corrosion. What do you all think?
I wonder If I can clean it up and see if this is the culprit.

[kc8adu]

2 lvds inputs?
i would try pressing on the big chip and see if things change.had a tcon once that had bad bga soldering. a refolow fixed it.
the processor have a thermal pad?
i have seen those break down to an oily mess.

[rayrod81]

This series of Samsung TVs had problems with the panel connections going bad. The symptoms you describe are most likely caused by a bad tab bond. If the T-con does not fix the problem then the TV has a bad LCD panel. If it has a bad panel then there is not much you can do short of buying a new screen. A temporary fix is to take the entire panel apart and insert Bump-ons between the bad connection and the outer frame of the LCD panel. This is a temporary fix at best and many times won't work past a day or two if that. Samsung, Sony and some others had this problem. It was a tab bonding issue on Samsung LCD panels made for the 2007/2008 models. Here is a Sanyo with the bad tab bond on the LCD. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmvwv0gYIDM

[Horty24]

Originally Posted by kc8adu

2 lvds inputs?
i would try pressing on the big chip and see if things change.had a tcon once that had bad bga soldering. a refolow fixed it.
the processor have a thermal pad?
i have seen those break down to an oily mess.

It did have some kind of gray pad stuck on to it. once It came off is when I saw the liquid. There is not much on there but still suspcious.
Sorry for the ignorance but what is REFOLOW?

[Horty24]

i see that the Tcon has a number 40/46/52HHC6LV3.3
When I look online for a T-con there are so many that pop up that have that same board # along with serial sticker number. Are they all the same or does it have to be specific to that TV?

[py3m4n]

If the number matches the number you have taken off the t-con board and says it will work in LNT4669FX/XXA then that's the board you want.

I would ask you to hold off on getting the t-con just now though and upload some pictures of what you are seeing on the display when the fault is showing so you can get some more opinions. You don't want to to wasting money buying a t-con if it is related to the tap automated bonding. From your description I was thinking that you have a darkened picture halved down the middle on one side, that's why I ruled out the likely hood of it being the bonds. if it's bleeding in from one side then I wouldn't be so confident that it's the t-con.

[Horty24]

Here are some pics of the screen issues. This only happens for the first 15-25 minutes. then the screen looks good. I do not know how long the pics stays good for as I just got this TV and looking to fix it. Shaking or Tapping on the TV does nothing. What I've seen though sometimes when I first turn the TV on it's either dark on the right side, other times looks good but flickers on the right side.
Also is a short clip of the flickering and aslo dark towards the middle.

http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/v...t=100_3540.mp4

[rayrod81]

The video confirms that it a bad panel. One of the tab bonds is going bad.

[Horty24]

Is there a reason on why the pic looks good after 10-15 minutes? I had it on for about 5 hours today and looked great after the 15 min once i turned it on.

[rayrod81]

Once it heats up the tab makes full contact with the panel and the picture will clear up. When it is cold the connection is intermittent. Here is a Sony with the same problem. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNQBBKe2pso There are videos detailing how to fix this problem on YouTube but it doesn't always work and many times only fixes the problem for a couple of days or less.

[G Nicholls]

I worked on a Samsung 46" LCD mfg. in 2008 this past week. Flexing the frame slightly confirmed a "bad tab bond".

Removed the plastic front bezel. Then removed the metal frame from the LCD panel to expose the mylar film tab conections.

Confirmed the display's top right-hand-side mylar film connection was flakey with the set powered up.

I placed a 1 inch strip of closed-cell foam tape on the offending bond. I replaced 3/4 of the width of the paper that covers the adhesive back on the stickie portion of the tape. Then I placed the stickie portion AWAY from the area where the mylar bonds to the glass. If there was a problem like the foam tape being too thick, I wanted to be able to remove it without pulling the existing "bond" off.

Replaced the metal frame and the display worked perfectly. Carefully re-assembled the set. It is working perfectly for 3 days now. Just thought I would share a fix that I learned elsewhere on the forum. learning results from sharing.

This was a "dead horse" that did come back to life!! YEEE Haaaaaa!

[bbjunkie]

I was reading on another TV repair forum (professional trade forum) about how the percentage of failed tab bonds is much higher on TVs that are wall mounted. Interesting!

It has put me off wallmounting TVs in my new house.