Capxon GL is replace on sight (like fuhjyyu), white display problem and it being intermittent sounds like a flex cable issue or the Genesis controller not getting it's voltage (defective regulator on the controller board? usually one 3.3V and another one with 2.5V or 1.8V))
That may not be so easy to resolve. By the symptoms, it's a bad solder joint. Given the extreme small size of the components, the lack of schematics, and even pin-outs of some of the ICs, this is NOT easy. And an honest question is "How much time and effort should be spent on a 17" monitor?" Unfortunately, my frugal upbringing won't allow me to discard it!!!
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Capxon GL is replace on sight (like fuhjyyu), white display problem and it being intermittent sounds like a flex cable issue or the Genesis controller not getting it's voltage (defective regulator on the controller board? usually one 3.3V and another one with 2.5V or 1.8V))
No, if I haven't made it clear, let me correct that. The panel circuit board contains a set of power supplies which generate the voltages needed by the LCD panel. That supply is dead. At one point yesterday it WAS working and the test points showed voltages ranging from approximately + 25 volts to - 10 volts (using an oscilloscope). Before I could grab a DMM, the power supplies had failed again.
And before someone else says 'Fuse!' let me repeat - there is 5 volts present on the panel card at all times.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
No, if I haven't made it clear, let me correct that. The panel circuit board contains a set of power supplies which generate the voltages needed by the LCD panel. That supply is dead. At one point yesterday it WAS working and the test points showed voltages ranging from approximately + 25 volts to - 10 volts (using an oscilloscope). Before I could grab a DMM, the power supplies had failed again.
And before someone else says 'Fuse!' let me repeat - there is 5 volts present on the panel card at all times.
PlainBill
I have seen that before and yesterday I revisited my notes. I have three Hanns-G panels with that symptoms/problems. One, sadly, got broken while I was extracting the lamps to fix a Samsung (how, I don't know. I promise I was as careful as always...). The other two ad their lamps removed too, but I did not discard them. Someone here suggested that one of the DC-DC converters on the board in the panel itself was failing, but due to the fact that I have no electronics background, and I don't have (contrary to Bill, and others around here) a scope, I just left them stored.
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
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I have seen that before and yesterday I revisited my notes. I have three Hanns-G panels with that symptoms/problems. One, sadly, got broken while I was extracting the lamps to fix a Samsung (how, I don't know. I promise I was as careful as always...). The other two ad their lamps removed too, but I did not discard them. Someone here suggested that one of the DC-DC converters on the board in the panel itself was failing, but due to the fact that I have no electronics background, and I don't have (contrary to Bill, and others around here) a scope, I just left them stored.
I've seen pictures of other panel cards that had a single IC to generate the voltages. This one appears to use multiple ICs. I've been able to read the part numbers of a few of them. One does not appear to have a datasheet available. I was unable to match the part number of the other; probably a reading error on my part.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
PlainBill,
Any progress on this? I have an E178fpb and the boards don't match the physical description of yours. or the pictures. I can't tell anything that's wrong with the boards.
PlainBill,
Any progress on this? I have an E178fpb and the boards don't match the physical description of yours. or the pictures. I can't tell anything that's wrong with the boards.
It's a slow process. I HAVE found a lighted magnifier so reading part numbers on ICs is now possible. Unfortunately, the numbers I come up with don't generate hits with Google. The input to the inductor is a steady 5V DC,obviously it should be switched on and off. The next step is to try to trace it back to the driver.
I had considered the 'poke and prod' approach on the assumption it was a bad solder joint. However, that seems dubious when it would involve shorting IC pins together....
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Good news / bad news on this monitor. My wife teaches computer skills in a Middle School. One of the modules is base on the Lego Mindstorm robotics system. The NXT controllers are unreliable, the problem is often poor solder joints on the display assembly. Currently I have half a dozen of them in a box waiting for repair. Sadly, my venerable Ungar 27 watt soldering iron just isn't up to the task - the tip is too big. So yesterday I went down to Frys and picked up a Weller SP12. That worked much better, and I was able to cope with SMD devices.
Next, I pulled this monitor off the shelf and began touching up the components in the power supply area of the tcon. I hit paydirt when several resistors moved when I touched one end with the soldering iron (obviously the other end was not soldered). The display panel now works perfectly.
Unfortunately, I have misplaced the screws that hold everything together.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
I have one Dell E178FPc. When I power one the Monitor it shows the Full Screen Test pattern like images. It doesn't get affected with or without VGA cable connectivity
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