talk to topcat you need 6.3v (or higher) 560uf caps. must be 560uf since thats the marked value. samxon will work fine or go rubycon if you want the absolute best. since you are in between memory chips, id pay more and get rubycon since it can get hot there
ps, try to get the physical size right as well. get out a ruler/tape measure and measure in mm of both diameter and height.
pps. any other nichicon hm/hn on there/ replace any of those as well since those were a bad model. brand on yellow caps?
question- do you want the board to work for sure or not. caps often fail without visual signs. since you have no esr meter, you will have to replace all the bad model/brand ones. remember you get half off caps since you are an active forum member.
yeah want the board to work but ive never replaced caps before and the computer place charges by the hour and the other one is 10$ a cap if i am not in a hurry.
My Computer.
AMD APU A4-3300 2.5ghz 1mb cache
Motherboard GigaByte GA-A75M-S2V
Kingston HyperX Blue DDR3 8GB (2x4GB)
a GOOD soldering iron/station, 30 watt, ones with a tip holder like this:
that is the international vs of mine, xytronic 258 adjustable temp grounded professional iron.
it disassembles by a sleeve being threaded over the shaft with a flanged tip in between.
dont buy one like this:
the tip is a shaft with a tip held in by a screw. poor heat transfer, bad quality, not grounded, and unlike the one above, no replacement/different tips are available.
for solder some recommend 40/60- i use silver-bearing. make sure it is thin spooled kind
for solder suckers, do not use this kind:
or
those are pogo stick plastic or plastic-aluminum hybrid suckers. the threads holding it together will strip and fail, often shooting a tip across the room and possibly breaking a window/hurting your self
admittedly, i use pogo stick myself. mine:
it is of all aluminum construction
some, particularly kerijane, like this kind:
it has a softer touch and if you are not keen with you thumb, you dont have to re-cock it. they spill old solder when turned tip-down and are hard to clean
some will swear by desoldering irons and guns, but good ones cost a real boatload
if you have a stubborn joint, mix in a small amount silver-bearing solder, make it melt better
get a good stand:
if you are using an iron
buy your tools online or at a local electronics shop. don't go to radio shack, their tools are flash overpriced crap. i had to replace almost every tool i bought there... the local shop had same prices but better equipment . pay for quality, not flashy-ness and and extra middlemen.
uh yeah ill look into that for when i do try to do a recaping but i am just going to send it to Topcat for now
plus i tend to get a little shaky with my right hand at times.
My Computer.
AMD APU A4-3300 2.5ghz 1mb cache
Motherboard GigaByte GA-A75M-S2V
Kingston HyperX Blue DDR3 8GB (2x4GB)
Sex is the only thing a man does faster without practice.
OP, learn to go slow and careful on your recap jobs.
Speed comes with repetition.
A fast, sloppy job winds up as a DOA board, and a re-do.
Pull the new caps you just bought, throw 'em out, go again.
Dumb.
Like painting, the quality is in the prep work.
Use a 450C tip to de-solder and remove your caps.
I have good luck with both the sucker bulb and stainless needle for cleaning holes.
Does anyone know whare i can find 2 of these caps the big orange one.
You can buy compatible replacements from here, ebay, or at Mouser.com
The caps with the "X" vent and black sleeves/gold stripes are probably Nichicon HN. If you buy caps from here, make sure to mention that to Topcat so he can give you compatible low-esr caps. Or if you buy from ebay, look for Rubycon MCZ or Nichicon HZ as those should be compatible as well. Otherwise you can buy the same Nichicon HN caps from Mouser - and don't worry, it's unlikely that they will fail. Reason why is because Nichicon HN and HM had problems with caps made before 2005, but are okay since then. I doubt Mouser will sell you old caps.
Also, check the brand/model of other caps with "X" vents and black sleeves/gray stripes near the PCI slots. If they are Nichicon HM, they might need replacing too (just look for a 4 digit date code on them where the first 2 numbers represent the year - if it's 04 or less, they can be bad). Anything under 470uF, however, doesn't need to be replaced unless the motherboard's problems still persist.
You can buy compatible replacements from here, ebay, or at Mouser.com
The caps with the "X" vent and black sleeves/gold stripes are probably Nichicon HN. If you buy caps from here, make sure to mention that to Topcat so he can give you compatible low-esr caps. Or if you buy from ebay, look for Rubycon MCZ or Nichicon HZ as those should be compatible as well. Otherwise you can buy the same Nichicon HN caps from Mouser - and don't worry, it's unlikely that they will fail. Reason why is because Nichicon HN and HM had problems with caps made before 2005, but are okay since then. I doubt Mouser will sell you old caps.
Also, check the brand/model of other caps with "X" vents and black sleeves/gray stripes near the PCI slots. If they are Nichicon HM, they might need replacing too (just look for a 4 digit date code on them where the first 2 numbers represent the year - if it's 04 or less, they can be bad). Anything under 470uF, however, doesn't need to be replaced unless the motherboard's problems still persist.
I am just sending the board to Topcat any-caps that need to be replaced will be replaced.
My Computer.
AMD APU A4-3300 2.5ghz 1mb cache
Motherboard GigaByte GA-A75M-S2V
Kingston HyperX Blue DDR3 8GB (2x4GB)
to the left of them is another nichicon, as well as those UCC's look like KZE's from what I could see, those may be from the defective series, maybe not.
I think only KZG (and possibly KZJ) had heat-related problems. KZE uses different electrolyte and their ESR isn't as low as KZG and KZJ.
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On Phaihn's board, the KZG caps seem to be on the high-side of VRM so they probably aren't as stressed as the Fujitsu caps on the low-side of VRM.
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