Ok What voltage is there at the torpedo fuse? Measure each side of fuse to ground
Also near the fuse there is IC701 - can you test it - they dont often seem to go wrong but we have had a couple lately and as the fuse was blown perhaps it got taken out as well?
You mentioned D 602 can you retest and state the resistances ideally should be
resistance above 30ohms one way and very high/ off scale the other.- You may have to lift one leg to test.
Voltage at torpedo fuse cycling 5-7.5 volts on both sides. D602 out of circuit shows 28.9 Kohms and 0 ohms. Don't know how to test IC701. Identified it with markings KA431AZ as being a three terminal adjustable regulator.
Yes. Look at the underside of the board to see the component numbers.
You'll need a meter that can check the capacitance. Some DMM's have a capacitance check function. It will need to be removed from the circuit to verify the value.
Transcribe the numbers/letters line by line from the cap here so we can determine the values.
T
Additional: Did you replace both electrolytic caps on the hot side? C611 & C606?
Since the fuse popped, something is wrong beyond the PSU. Getting the PSU working is the first step towards resolving the other issue. Had someone worked on this before?
There maybe a standby voltage produced by the PSU that is passed to the circuits beyond, but is controlled by the Opto IC652 which tells the PSU "I'm okay" and allows it to switch on when needed.
Probably produced by the regulator IC603 (3-legged, TO-92 package) above the mains cap. What are its' markings & find a datasheet for it. What voltages do you get measured from HOT ground to each leg?
Apologies meant to say no reading. In diode mode shows .533v and 0v
I assume you mean 0L (out of range).
PS. A multimeter always gives you a reading when it is turned on. There is no such thing as "no reading".
Interpreting it correctly is key.
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@Toasty
Tested the blue capacitor 1.01 nF,
Markings
102J
2J
IC 603 is marked MCR 100-6 816
seems to be a silicon controlled rectifier, datasheet here http://www.futurlec.com/Diodes/MCR100-6.shtml
Tested all legs,
a pin cycling 6-12v
all other pins showing 0v
Q601 is marked K3548 6692 01
Tested across pins in circuit.
Pins 1 2 3, G D S
1-2 0L
1-3 0L
2-3 225 ohms then 0L
I think this is maybe worth removing and testing further.
Couldn't find a datasheet.
Fuji Electric 2SK3548 - been looking for a long time for that one.
Use diode check function and test both ways. Unlikely that it's bad if the 0.22Ω resistor is good.
Have you checked that little electrolytic over at the far left of first picture?
This uses PFC, if I'm not mistaken. You should be getting 385-400v on the mains cap when on. I think perhaps the boost controller or its' circuit may be the culprit. Love to get hands on with one of these someday.
Clean the backside with alcohol and a soft brush to get rid of the flux. Visually inspect every chip transistor and resistor for burn marks with a magnifying glass/loupe. Test the transistors using the diode check function.
I'm usually pretty good at picking them out in the pics, but there's too much flux distorting the pictures.
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