Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

    Hello. Please have a scheme to BN41-00813B? My TV still does not work properly. When cool the TV, the start takes a few minutes. I think that the main board defective (BN41-00813B). Can someone help me? Thank you.

    Comment


      Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

      I found on aliexpress seller and I bought from him I had to buy 6 piece minimum. Now 2 weeks of waiting for them to come and after that I hope when friend & I solder all capacitors that are dead, that tv will be working again.
      Last edited by Thermaltake; 08-16-2015, 12:21 PM.

      Comment


        Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

        Originally posted by DaTT View Post
        I suppose something cold start drawing too much current. Can be a problem on the main TV card? Referring to the temperature dependence of the cold start I would have guessed for a capacitor. I have a good idea? Or is it stupidity? DaTT.
        Originally posted by DaTT View Post
        Hello. Please have a scheme to BN41-00813B? My TV still does not work properly. When cool the TV, the start takes a few minutes. I think that the main board defective (BN41-00813B). Can someone help me? Thank you.
        It does seem like you have a heat sensitive fault on the mainboard. From what I see on the forum, a bad capacitor may be the cause. It may even be a surface-mount polymer or such capacitor too.

        Can you selectively heat or cool parts on the board? Do you have freezer spray?

        Check the earlier pages of this thread for some schematics.
        "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
        -David VanHorn

        Comment


          Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

          Is it worth changing thermal paste under that mosfet chips with heatsink if supply is like 7+ years old or I should just leave it like it is ? Those that I will change of course I will put new one, but I was wondering if I should replace paste on all others that have heatsink.

          Comment


            Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

            Over time the paste can dry out or degrade - how long this takes I'm not sure. If it doesn't look or feel like paste anymore, seems dry\crumbly etc... definitely replace it.

            Make sure you use the same amount they have used already, too little (or even too much) can cause problems.
            "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
            -David VanHorn

            Comment


              Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

              Any paste is good or ? I have MX-4 for PCs, laptops, GPUs that I put, she is very good and very nice temps I got with her, one of the best in my opinion. I think it's like on CPU not too much but not too many I assume. I saw that they have some kind of thermal track on heatsink so I guess it needs to be spread on chip and not like CPU when you put dot and he spread thermal paste on it's own.


              On this video
              https://youtu.be/02Re-UmG9Gc?t=5m22s

              guy puts a bit too much I think or not ?
              Last edited by Thermaltake; 08-20-2015, 12:31 PM.

              Comment


                Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                CPU paste should work great but might be a bit of a waste as it is probably overkill, CPU and GPU has to dissipate more heat I expect.

                Just make sure if anything was insulated before with washers that you keep it insulated, note that some CPU paste is conductive.
                "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                -David VanHorn

                Comment


                  Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                  Originally posted by Agent24 View Post
                  CPU paste should work great but might be a bit of a waste as it is probably overkill, CPU and GPU has to dissipate more heat I expect.

                  Just make sure if anything was insulated before with washers that you keep it insulated, note that some CPU paste is conductive.
                  MX-4 is non-conductive and non-capacitive, then MX-4 will do the work.

                  Comment


                    Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                    Success, Tv is working again! I am extra happy right now.

                    We replaced:

                    - RM801
                    - CM810
                    - QM801 (we didn't find 500V 9A so we put a bit stronger one 600V 9A)
                    - QM802 (we didn't find 500V 9A so we put a bit stronger one 600V 9A)
                    - CM808

                    - Glue removed (picture down is before replacements)

                    Total cost around 8-10$

                    Pics:

                    what we replaced:


                    Working TV:



                    Thank you so much guys for your suggestions and help, appreciate it.
                    Last edited by Thermaltake; 08-26-2015, 10:55 AM.

                    Comment


                      Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                      Nice
                      "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                      -David VanHorn

                      Comment


                        Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                        Very cheap fix, it was that or new supply, and new supply on this old tv is not a cheap investment.

                        Now I gain some new experience, if anything similar came in the future I will know where to start. Hope I helped with this description up if anyone else is having similar troubles with their supply.

                        P.S
                        I put MX-2 thermal paste (I use MX-4 also) on both mosfets, I used dot method like on PC CPU in the middle of the chip and tight the screw to heat sink.
                        Last edited by Thermaltake; 08-27-2015, 12:21 PM.

                        Comment


                          Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                          Hello everyone.
                          I've been woking on yet another BN44-00155A board for a LN T3253H. It had the slow blinking light with alternating blue ambient.
                          It had only one bad cap (all the others tested OK) but I replaced all of the caps as I had a kit on hand.
                          Next I found the RM801 had blown so I replaced it, only thing I had was a 22ohm 2W flame proof instead of the 1W fused.
                          I removed all of the glue as standard practice thanks to this thread. None of it seemed to be giving a problem.
                          Again because of this thread I replaced CM810, QM801, QM802 and CM808.
                          The set has come back to life however after a few minuets I smelt something overheating and found the higher watt RM801 was glowing red.
                          The million dollar question now is where do I look next?

                          Comment


                            Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                            You put in the wrong resistor (see diagram in the earlier thread), RM801 it should be 0.22 Ohms Fusible resistor, not 22 Ohms, that is why it burnt up.
                            Never stop learning
                            Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                            Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                            Inverter testing using old CFL:
                            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                            Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                            http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                            TV Factory reset codes listing:
                            http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                            Comment


                              Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                              Ah bugger, I'll go bury my head now, totally missed the decimal point there.
                              How are you doing budm?

                              Comment


                                Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                                The correct fusible resistors arrived yesterday. Popped it in last night and all is right as rain.
                                Thank you again budm and everyone else that contributed to this thread, nice top have two of these back in working order.
                                DSC

                                Comment


                                  Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                                  Hello,
                                  I have samsung LE32A336. I am sure that a repaired whole PSU, because I tested all voltages on their nominal current. Everything's fine, until I connect main board, then StandBy supply (5.2V) started oscillation between 5,2V and 0, I think, it is because on the mother board is shortcut, but I cannot found him. I changed all elites, but does not help. I am thinking about corrupted EEPROM, but it cannot shortcut supply, am I right? BTW, when I connect resistor between StB supply and ON/OFF pin on PSU, TV works fine, but it is not good way ). Any suggestion please?

                                  Comment


                                    Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                                    Originally posted by coolizard View Post
                                    Hello,
                                    I have samsung LE32A336. I am sure that a repaired whole PSU, because I tested all voltages on their nominal current. Everything's fine, until I connect main board, then StandBy supply (5.2V) started oscillation between 5,2V and 0, I think, it is because on the mother board is shortcut, but I cannot found him. I changed all elites, but does not help. I am thinking about corrupted EEPROM, but it cannot shortcut supply, am I right? BTW, when I connect resistor between StB supply and ON/OFF pin on PSU, TV works fine, but it is not good way ). Any suggestion please?
                                    Or schematic will be very usefull if somebody has please?

                                    Comment


                                      Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                                      Originally posted by coolizard View Post
                                      Or schematic will be very usefull if somebody has please?
                                      Your TV is a different model to the one posted here. Please start your own thread, post photos if you can. People are more likely to be able to help you then
                                      "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                                      -David VanHorn

                                      Comment


                                        Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                                        Originally posted by Agent24 View Post
                                        Your TV is a different model to the one posted here. Please start your own thread, post photos if you can. People are more likely to be able to help you then
                                        Sorry about that, I started here, because PSU is similar. I will start new one.

                                        Comment


                                          Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

                                          Originally posted by Thermaltake View Post
                                          Success, Tv is working again! I am extra happy right now.

                                          We replaced:

                                          - RM801
                                          - CM810
                                          - QM801 (we didn't find 500V 9A so we put a bit stronger one 600V 9A)
                                          - QM802 (we didn't find 500V 9A so we put a bit stronger one 600V 9A)
                                          - CM808

                                          - Glue removed (picture down is before replacements)

                                          Total cost around 8-10$

                                          Pics:

                                          what we replaced:


                                          Working TV:



                                          Thank you so much guys for your suggestions and help, appreciate it.
                                          Good morning to all and happy new year. Happy new year to you Thermaltake.
                                          I would like to ask you about the supplier of the components.
                                          I have the same problem.
                                          Thank you in advanced

                                          Comment

                                          Working...
                                          X