Samsung 2232GW -- power LED 'flashes' full bright/dim/full bright/...

[michrech]

I have a Samsung 2232GW monitor. I replaced all of the electrolytic caps on the power supply (save for the big one) since all but one of them was bulging/leaking (I used Panasonic FC series of the same capacitance/voltage to replace the existing blown caps).

Now when I turn on the monitor, the power light lights up, flashes bright/dim/bright/dim (fairly slowly -- about a second or two between each 'flash'). There is no display on the screen at all (that I can see, by shining an extremely bright light at the display). The I/O board *looks* OK (no blown caps/etc).

I'm not sure what to check from here. This is the first of over a dozen monitors where I've had such an issue. I can get a 'brand new' power supply on eBay (from China) for $19 with free shipping, but I don't want to spend that if this issue is something easy to fix, or the I/O board...

Any insight you guys could provide would be appreciated.

[budm]

Re: Samsung 2232GW -- power LED 'flashes' full bright/dim/full bright/...

Did you get pictures before you replaced the caps? May be check and re-seat all the cables and check all the pins on the connectors to make sure they are not bent or not seated properly.

[michrech]

Re: Samsung 2232GW -- power LED 'flashes' full bright/dim/full bright/...

No. As this isn't the first monitor I've repaired with bad caps, I don't think to do that any longer. There are very few cables inside this to make sure are connected properly. Of the few, everything looks like it's connected correctly, and there are no bent pins...

[michrech]

Re: Samsung 2232GW -- power LED 'flashes' full bright/dim/full bright/...

I did see, in the thread linked below, that three of the blown caps on his power board were of a different capacitance than what I found on my board:

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...Samsung+2232GW

Mine were 680uf where his were 820uf. The four shown in that picture were also blown in mine. You can see the picture of his board in the second page of the above thread. Looking at his pictures, he has the same board model / revision as mine, so I'm not sure what to make of the difference.

I *do* have some brand new 820uf parts I can swap in place of the 680uf's, if you think it'd make a difference...

[Lumberjack777]

Re: Samsung 2232GW -- power LED 'flashes' full bright/dim/full bright/...

If you are absolutely sure that is the same power board and revision then you may have a point. I have ran into 2 "repairs" lately where the person used the wrong capacitors. On page 2 that you linked to, you can tell the 820uF's are the originals because the C114 still has the glue on it. Generally, only the original manufacturer uses the glue. Do you remember if there was glue attached to the C114 you replaced? I think you might be the victim of a mucked up "repair".
If you are sure that is the exact same board. And like you said you can get a new one for $19. I'd replace those with the 820uF's and check the F301 fuse nearby.
I'm starting to get "repaired" monitors, and those are the WORST to try and fix, because the previous guy often used the wrong components.

[budm]

Re: Samsung 2232GW -- power LED 'flashes' full bright/dim/full bright/...

Sorry, wrong thread.

[michrech]

Re: Samsung 2232GW -- power LED 'flashes' full bright/dim/full bright/...

Yes, C114 still had glue attached (I left the 'glob' on the board when I removed the blown part). To check F301, I assume I'll need to remove it from the board first?

If you are absolutely sure that is the same power board and revision then you may have a point. I have ran into 2 "repairs" lately where the person used the wrong capacitors. On page 2 that you linked to, you can tell the 820uF's are the originals because the C114 still has the glue on it. Generally, only the original manufacturer uses the glue. Do you remember if there was glue attached to the C114 you replaced? I think you might be the victim of a mucked up "repair".
If you are sure that is the exact same board. And like you said you can get a new one for $19. I'd replace those with the 820uF's and check the F301 fuse nearby.
I'm starting to get "repaired" monitors, and those are the WORST to try and fix, because the previous guy often used the wrong components.