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ECS mcp61pm-hm 6-bad 1800uf 63 Tk caps

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    #61
    Re: ECS mcp61pm-hm 6-bad 1800uf 63 Tk caps

    I've attached two close-up photos that show the capacitor that has the small brown (electrolyte) spot and very slight upward bulge at its vent. The bulge is hard to see clearly because it's so slight... the photo shot from the side is the better view. The photo shot from above is the better view of the brown spot. I believe the zillion tiny white particles are dust motes, not leaked electrolyte.

    The photos were shot about 6 months ago. To my eye, the capacitor still looks the same now... the bulge & spot haven't gotten any larger.

    Does the smallness of the brown spot and the slightness of the bulge mean the capacitor is still mostly functioning? In other words, do the smallness and slightness decrease the probability that this capacitor will cause other capacitors to fail, compared to what the probability would be if the spot & bulge were larger?

    If so, it may shift the balance between the risk of replacing the capacitor versus the risk of not replacing the capacitor.

    C_hegge's comment that other capacitors are being forced to take up the slack suggests a third option should be considered: soldering an additional capacitor to the underside of the motherboard without removing the one that's failing. (Because my motherboard is running on my desk instead of being installed in the computer case, I'm not constrained by the narrow gap between motherboard & case; there's room to add components to the underside.) The new capacitor wouldn't have a mechanically strong connection because it would be held on only by solder and electrician's tape, but I would promise to be careful to avoid stressing it mechanically.

    (By the way, the motherboard photo attached to my previous message was a stock image copied from HP's website.)

    Thanks again!
    Attached Files

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      #62
      Re: ECS mcp61pm-hm 6-bad 1800uf 63 Tk caps

      Originally posted by SolderTrouble View Post
      Does the smallness of the brown spot and the slightness of the bulge mean the capacitor is still mostly functioning?
      No. That cap is dead.

      Originally posted by SolderTrouble View Post
      C_hegge's comment that other capacitors are being forced to take up the slack suggests a third option should be considered: soldering an additional capacitor to the underside of the motherboard without removing the one that's failing. (Because my motherboard is running on my desk instead of being installed in the computer case, I'm not constrained by the narrow gap between motherboard & case; there's room to add components to the underside.) The new capacitor wouldn't have a mechanically strong connection because it would be held on only by solder and electrician's tape, but I would promise to be careful to avoid stressing it mechanically.
      It may work, or it may not. If the cap fails open, (ie, acts as if it weren't installed), then it may work. Caps can also fail shorted or with high leakage current (ie, act as if a jumper wire were installed across the pins). This will kill the transistors and installing an extra cap is not going to make a bit of difference.

      What is worrying me more is that the board appears to have bad Sanyo WGs, which is highly unusual as they are a very reliable cap. Make sure you don't also have bad caps in your PSU.
      I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

      No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

      Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

      Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

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        #63
        Re: ECS mcp61pm-hm 6-bad 1800uf 63 Tk caps

        I have one of these MCP61PM-HM that I've had for years now. It has TK 6.3v 1800uf on the VRM. I am wanting to do what you do did and go all polymer on the VRM, 2.5V 820uf.

        The other 6.3v 1800uf, I am having trouble finding a replacement in the 8mm can size. All the other caps are all 10mm, except for a general purpose Nichicon cap. I have looked on both Digikey and Mouser. Couldn't I just buy replace them with polymers? They seem pretty cheap if you buy them in 10 or more. I don't understand how to pick the polys, it seems that people buy polys that are both less in voltage rating and capacitance.

        Comment


          #64
          Re: ECS mcp61pm-hm 6-bad 1800uf 63 Tk caps

          ^
          Depending on which revision your board is, go with one of the following:

          https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=161 for rev 1.0b
          or
          https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=180 for rev 2.2

          Those kits have all the required caps in the correct diameter.
          I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

          No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

          Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

          Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

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