I just wanted to let you folks know that I successfully repaired my Viewsonic vx2835wm monitor.
The original thread with photos is here (https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23342) for those that may come across this thread in the future.
I couldn't get my head round how to do the actual board testing and I didn't want to blow myself up so I ended up just going for a recap session. I recapped the ones as highlighted in the pictures by Lumberjack777 In the original thread reply (https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23342) on the power board and from the main board I replaced C124, C126, C176, C198 as they were all bulging.
I did have one issue which was I lifted some of the solder pads on the power board. I blame this on too hot an iron (60 watt) and my own technique (held it there for too long) I switched from my 60W chisel tip to my 40w pointed tip and had no further problems. So perhaps for the ham fisted solder holder beginners you should look at the lowest wattage iron that will do the job.
I ended up finding some guides on how to glue down the pads again but unfortunately one of the pads did brake just along into the trace.
More trawling of the internet and I found a guide which basically involved finding the thinnest piece of plain wire you could get your hands on and wrapping it around the leg of the cap after it had come through the hole and solder it for good measure so it doesn't move. I had already cleaned what trace was left with a sharp detailing/hobby knife and tinned it as best I could with some solder. I then lined up the wire which was attached to the cap (again I had already lined it up prior to this and pre-tinned the area to be attached to the trace) along with my tinned trace and applied very quick heat to melt both solders and provide suitable connection for the cap. It definitely wasn't pretty but I held well and the connection was made.
Result? Well all has been running well for about 6 weeks now picture looks really clear and crisp, no smoke, blue lights or bangs
!
I just wanted to thank all those who chimed in with some advice. I would never had imagined I could have fixed this when it first went south but there you go we do surprise ourselves at times.
Lessons for any fellow newbie?
Trawl google and youtube – a wealth of helpful knowledge is out there.
Buy a test board and some cheap caps to practice with – as I did (and i still made a mistake!)
Go slow and steady, don't push or wiggle caps violently – take your time breath, retin your tip.
Applying a little solder to the existing cap leg solder really improved the removal process.
Try to do the procedure in daylight or a very well lit room as if you don't have a soldering station with a magnifying glass built in your eyes get really strained.
I did buy myself a cheap magnifying glass which did help a great deal when inspecting the state of the trace for breakages.
Have some place which is wife proof where you can store the monitor whilst you are working on the boards – not the central coffee table!
And that's about it, don't be afraid to give it go but if you are unsure about anything just ask, there are plenty of people on these forums who really want to help.
My total expenditure was about 30 pounds which included the new iron and if I wanted to buy a new monitor of the same size I would be looking at upward of 150 pounds. So if I get another year or two out of this current one then it is money well spend.
Next task? Have a go at fixing an old HP Pavillion DV 4000 – fingers crossed !
Thanks again Badcap members
The original thread with photos is here (https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23342) for those that may come across this thread in the future.
I couldn't get my head round how to do the actual board testing and I didn't want to blow myself up so I ended up just going for a recap session. I recapped the ones as highlighted in the pictures by Lumberjack777 In the original thread reply (https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23342) on the power board and from the main board I replaced C124, C126, C176, C198 as they were all bulging.
I did have one issue which was I lifted some of the solder pads on the power board. I blame this on too hot an iron (60 watt) and my own technique (held it there for too long) I switched from my 60W chisel tip to my 40w pointed tip and had no further problems. So perhaps for the ham fisted solder holder beginners you should look at the lowest wattage iron that will do the job.
I ended up finding some guides on how to glue down the pads again but unfortunately one of the pads did brake just along into the trace.
More trawling of the internet and I found a guide which basically involved finding the thinnest piece of plain wire you could get your hands on and wrapping it around the leg of the cap after it had come through the hole and solder it for good measure so it doesn't move. I had already cleaned what trace was left with a sharp detailing/hobby knife and tinned it as best I could with some solder. I then lined up the wire which was attached to the cap (again I had already lined it up prior to this and pre-tinned the area to be attached to the trace) along with my tinned trace and applied very quick heat to melt both solders and provide suitable connection for the cap. It definitely wasn't pretty but I held well and the connection was made.
Result? Well all has been running well for about 6 weeks now picture looks really clear and crisp, no smoke, blue lights or bangs
! I just wanted to thank all those who chimed in with some advice. I would never had imagined I could have fixed this when it first went south but there you go we do surprise ourselves at times.
Lessons for any fellow newbie?
Trawl google and youtube – a wealth of helpful knowledge is out there.
Buy a test board and some cheap caps to practice with – as I did (and i still made a mistake!)
Go slow and steady, don't push or wiggle caps violently – take your time breath, retin your tip.
Applying a little solder to the existing cap leg solder really improved the removal process.
Try to do the procedure in daylight or a very well lit room as if you don't have a soldering station with a magnifying glass built in your eyes get really strained.
I did buy myself a cheap magnifying glass which did help a great deal when inspecting the state of the trace for breakages.
Have some place which is wife proof where you can store the monitor whilst you are working on the boards – not the central coffee table!
And that's about it, don't be afraid to give it go but if you are unsure about anything just ask, there are plenty of people on these forums who really want to help.
My total expenditure was about 30 pounds which included the new iron and if I wanted to buy a new monitor of the same size I would be looking at upward of 150 pounds. So if I get another year or two out of this current one then it is money well spend.
Next task? Have a go at fixing an old HP Pavillion DV 4000 – fingers crossed !
Thanks again Badcap members
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