I have tried to tweak stuff in the overall menu option but there is none or very little change in picture.
Right.
The information I was interested in, however, is if the colors of the actuall OSD/menu on the screen were affected the same way as the picture. Because if they are not, then that means the problem is definitely in the video/logic board and not the t-con.
Now that you oven-cooked the board, though, I wouldn't suggest you go any further until you change the bulging capacitors (or at the very least that big one). It's probably not worth it for this monitor, but you can always re-use the new caps for another monitor later on, so it is not a complete loss of time either.
Hehehe funny selldoor =)
I'll see maybe I'll try and replace the caps. Here is a picture of the menu if it's of any use. But its still seems that you have little doubt on other parts. Do you still
believe that the caps may play bigger part in this than other stuff?
It is.
OSD menu colors look okay, though I'm not familiar with the way they should look for this monitor so I don't know if the colors are off or right. Go in the Color... submenu and take a picture of that. I'm trying to see if the OSD menu appears correctly as well. If it does, then it's a video/logic board and not t-con.
So I took some pictures. Actually I went into custom colours and played with the bars there, maybe it will help better to interpret the status. Just changing the modes quickly in the colour sub menu almost changes nothing. You just get a hint that pictures gets just a little more or less brighter.
Actually I went into custom colours and played with the bars there, maybe it will help better to interpret the status.
Yes.
Those RGB bars should be the same the color as their name - i.e. R should have appeared red, B blue, and G green in the OSD menu. The fact that they don't means that the whole video signal is getting messed up. Unfortunately, that still doesn't tell us if it's the t-con or video board.
I would say check diodes D1, D2, D3, D4, and D5 on the t-con board first (those devices labeled with "DALC" on them). This is their data sheet (see "Functional Diagram"):
Basically, check with your multimeter if there is a short circuit between any of the I/O and Ref 1/2 pins - you should see none.
Better yet, post your results in the following format:
--- diode D1
I/O 1 and Ref 2 - xxxx mV
I/O 2 and Ref 2 - xxxx mV
I/O 3 and Ref 2 - xxxx mV
I/O 4 and Ref 2 - xxxx mV
I/O 1 and Ref 1 - xxxx mV
I/O 2 and Ref 1 - xxxx mV
I/O 3 and Ref 1 - xxxx mV
I/O 4 and Ref 1 - xxxx mV
Where xxxx is the measurement on your multimeter. Then repeat the same for diode D2 D3, D4, and D5.
The diodes are good. Not much left to check . In fact, I can't think of anything else. You can try changing the small caps on the video board (i.e. these - the ones in the upper left corner in particular), but I doubt that will fix the problem. You can also check all of the small ceramic caps on the t-con and video board for short circuit if you want, though that is a lot of work.
I'm leaning towards either the Genesis controller on the video board is bad or the LVDS controller on the t-con is bad.
Sorry to make you do all of that work and not get any results yet .
I think I put this project aside. I'll probably assembly it back. I think I will save it if a donor monitor pops up. Which brings me to question do you know if there are other monitor models with the same video board?
Anyway the monitor is not fixed yet but I guess I have learned a little more and that is also very important so thank you momaka for helping and of course the others to!
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