al1916w two seconds to black

[sgcb]

Hi

I have an Acer AL1916w monitor that is experiencing two seconds to black: no display when turned on, but a image can still be seen with a flashlight. Upon discovering this forum I decided I should attempt to fix it before tossing the thing immediately. And to preface I am somewhat of a newbie when it comes to electronics. Though I have taken two circuits courses at university. So I do have a grasp on the basics: ohm's law, circuits involving resistors/capacitors/inductors, but little other than that.

With that said, I did crack open the monitor and found a few bulged capacitors on the power/inverter board (pictures included). I plan on replacing the 9 (?) capacitors shown not including the big one on the left based on your suggestions to others.

I gather from this data sheet the capacitors are as follows (I'm not sure what the abbreviations all mean other than V, capacitance, and temperature):

• C204,CE109,CE101
  AL LD 25V 220uF M 8*11.5 P3.5 105°C
• CE103,CE104
  AL LD 25V 1mF M 12.5*20 P5 105°C
• CE105
  AL LD 10V 2.2mF M 13*20 (?) P5 105°C
• CE107
  AL LD 50V 47uF M 6.3*11 P2.5 105°C
• CE108
  AL LD 50V 22uF M 5*11 P2 105°C

I'm unsure of how to go about ordering these. Digikey looks convenient, but I'm afraid I don't know enough to make use of its filters.

And since I don't have any equipment (soldering iron, multimeter) already here, I will have to purchase these to really troubleshoot the problem if new capacitors don't do the trick. Before I do though I was wondering what is the best way to get the white glue (pictured on topside) off the components/board?

--
Link to images (too big for on-site hosting)

[retiredcaps]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

I'm unsure of how to go about ordering these. Digikey looks convenient, but I'm afraid I don't know enough to make use of its filters.

The quick and easy way to order Panasonic FR or FM as your primary choice and FC if there is no stock or size available.

The more technical way is explained at (regulars may skip)

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...84&postcount=3

And since I don't have any equipment (soldering iron, multimeter) already here, I will have to purchase these to really troubleshoot the problem if new capacitors don't do the trick. Before I do though I was wondering what is the best way to get the white glue (pictured on topside) off the components/board?

Follow my sig file below exactly on how we prefer pictures to be attached.

You will need a soldering iron, solder, and possibly desolder pump to remove the bad capacitors. An excellent written guide is on this forum at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=485

A great soldering video is at

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

PS. 2 seconds to black described in great detail starting with post #19 at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10419

[budm]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

The list of the caps does not look right for 19" monitor, I expect to see some 470~1000uf 25v for the 12v power supply section for the backlights inverter, and some 680~1000uf 10v for the 5vdc section.
FM series at Digikey:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/cat/...panasonic%20FM

[sgcb]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

The list of the caps does not look right for 19" monitor, I expect to see some 470~1000uf 25v for the 12v power supply section for the backlights inverter, and some 680~1000uf 10v for the 5vdc section.
FM series at Digikey:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/cat/...panasonic%20FM

I inspected the physical caps on the board and the markings on each do match the list explicity except for two (CE108, CE102) which are situated at angles that make it hard to determine with 100% certainty. Though since the others did match, I will assume the data sheet is correct for those two as well.

retiredcaps:

Thanks very much for the information and links. I did see the guide on troubleshooting 2 seconds to black and will investigate once I have the tools. I thought since the board photos exceed maximum on-site resolution (3072x2304) they would be better suited for off-site hosting. However if you insist, I will try and scale down the images for on-site hosting below.

Also, I'm hoping someone can address the question from earlier: what is the best way to get the white glue (pictured on topside) off the components/board?

[Jasgriff]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

I agree with Budm ( as usual! ) that caps list doesn't look right. I am currently working on 3 of these monitors and I have a list of caps that I have ordered for one of these. There are a couple that are not the same as the list that I have for the same monitor. What ever you do only order direct replacements or you might cause more issues.

To get the glue off you need to use a sharp craft knife and very carefully cut a few MM away from the cap right down to the board. You don't need to remove all of the glue just enough to allow you to desolder the old cap. Just a little patience and care will free the cap enough for desoldering.

[sgcb]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

Hmm... are you working with a different board/revision? I know from searching for information on my problem, I encountered a couple different boards/revisions for this monitor.

Here are the values I can physically determine:

• C204 - 220uF 25V
• CE101 - 220uF 25V
• CE103 - 1000uF 25V
• CE104 - 1000uF 25V
• CE105 - 2200uF 10V
• CE109 - 220uF 25V
• CE107 - 47uF 50V

Looking at the print on the board, I think mine is: DAC-19M005 BF, rev: 01A

[Jasgriff]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

I have one open and its an 00A the other 2 are sealed up as I haven't got the bits needed to sort them out out. I think the point is use the diagram as a guide and if you get stuck verifying any of the caps that you take off then take a picture of them and we can tell you what they are on here.

[budm]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

See caps listing to see if it matches yours. This site keeps giving me error when I try to upload the PDF of this service manual for this DELTA board, it is only 2.5Mb size.

[sgcb]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

Caps match exactly despite the "AF" board model (mine is BF) The only thing differing seems to be the audio connector missing from my board AFAICT. With some additional light illumination I was able to confirm CE102 = 1000uF, 10V as well. CE108 will have to wait until I can remove it as it is wedged up close to the divider(?).

[budm]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

They just stuff the same blank board differently for their requirement and revision update.

[selldoor]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

@budm "This site keeps giving me error when I try to upload the PDF of this service manual "
It has never worked for PDF's up to the limit stated in the instructions. I dont know what the limit is - I dont try any more - I just post the links.

[FIXITNOW]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

@budm "This site keeps giving me error when I try to upload the PDF of this service manual "
It has never worked for PDF's up to the limit stated in the instructions. I dont know what the limit is - I dont try any more - I just post the links.

try zip ing them or .rar files

[sgcb]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

Okay, I now have a multimeter and an analog weller soldering station!

With the multimeter I'm able to provide some more information with the help of retiredcaps' guide on 2 seconds to black:

MOSFETs seem to be alright

Q205 - 40T03GP

s, g - ~14 MΩ
s, d - 0L
g, d - 0L

Q206 - 40T03GP

s, g - 0L
s, d - 0L
g, d - 0L

1 out of 3 fuses I found is blown (no sound during continuity test, 18MΩ resistance): F200 (circled in attachment)

What do I replace this fuse with? Is the cause of it the bad caps? I'm not sure...

Also along with the soldering station I purchased alpha fry 31604 solder with 0.062", 1.57mm diameter, but I'm thinking this may be too much. Have I made a mistake here? What would you recommend?

Do let me know if you need additional information.

[retiredcaps]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

1 out of 3 fuses I found is blown (no sound during continuity test, 18MΩ resistance): F200 (circled in attachment)

W = 4A. See

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...87&postcount=3

[sgcb]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

I've recapped my board, but the surface mount fuse is giving me a hard time. I've tried alternating heat to the leads, but still it does not budge. Are there any tips/tricks that I'm missing? I'm starting to contemplate just soldering a new fuse right on top of the old one.

[sgcb]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

Aha! With a stroke of luck I was able to remove f200 from the board and replace it!

I then hooked the thing up and it works!!! So exciting!

Thank you guys and badcaps forums ))

[budm]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

There is really no need to remove blown SMD fuse, you just solder the new one on top of the old one.

[sgcb]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

Wow so they actually do that in industy... I guess it does make practical sense after all.

[blascq]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

Hello,
I have a position problem of the D102, D103 diode, on the DAC-19M0005 BF, REV 01A ACER board TFT.
The reference of diode is SBT100, the other SBT150, I´m afraid that I not sure your right position, so I´ve tried to seek a picture or diagram to see the correct site, any information would become be welcome.
Best Regards.erece of diode was SBT100, SBT150, I´m afraid that not sure your rigth position, so I tried a picture or diagram to see the correct site.
Best Regards.

[budm]

Re: al1916w two seconds to black

@blascq: Not sure these pictures will help, there are at least 6 version of the AL1916.
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/ACER/
Can you post the pictyres of your board?
By the way, there should be dash after the SBT100-???, SBT150-???