Greetings, when I tried to power on my tv the other morning all I got was a flashing standby led.
The TV is a Samsung UE46D5005 that I've had since it was new in 2011.
Power supply is a BN44-00422A
The symptoms are as follows:
- When power plug is connected standby led is lit steady as normal.
- When attempting to turn on the TV by remote or front panel the standby led is flashing in a 2x5 sequence. 2 rapid flashes in a series of 5 then a pause until the sequence start over.
- When power plug is connected after being out for just a brief period the TV instantly goes to the 2x5 blinking stage without having to try to turn on the TV first.
- Screen is completely dark at all times.
After visual inspection all electrolytic caps seems fine. No sign of damage on power supply or motherboard. 3 of the caps showed 0 farad on my DMM out of circuit so I swapped two them for same size and voltage rubicon ones, the 3rd which initially was a 25V 390uF I swapped with a 25V 560uF.
The two fuses I've located passed continuity check.
The big 87uF 450V cap shows 320V steady regardless if mainboard and/or led strips are connected or not.
When mainboard is disconnected and AC plugged in pin 14(PS_ON) measure 3.3V, pin 12(A5V) measure 5.4V. All other pins 0V.
When mainboard is connected pin 14(PS_ON) goes to 0V, pin12(A5V) remains at 5.4V. All other pins are still 0V.
Strange to me is that several of the caps in the area close to backlight connector shows 0V as if that part of the board never gets turned on. The 200V 68uF, 25V 560uf (upper right) and 25V 390 uF(upper center next to mainboard connector) are the ones showing 0V.
Things I've tried after reading a lot on the forum:
- Soft reset with remote. No change.
- Unplug mainboard then connecting AC plug. No change. No backlight.
- Unplug backlight. No change.
- Hard reset by shorting EEPROM. No change.
- Tried measuring the wires going to the led strip, result is in the million Ohm range, however I don't know how useful this measurement is or how to interpret it.
- I attempted to access the LED strips for continuity check today but for some reason none of my phillips heads were a good match for the screws so I left it alone before I started stripping heads.
So... what to do? How to rule out the good components and trace down the culprit? Thanks for reading my post.
The TV is a Samsung UE46D5005 that I've had since it was new in 2011.
Power supply is a BN44-00422A
The symptoms are as follows:
- When power plug is connected standby led is lit steady as normal.
- When attempting to turn on the TV by remote or front panel the standby led is flashing in a 2x5 sequence. 2 rapid flashes in a series of 5 then a pause until the sequence start over.
- When power plug is connected after being out for just a brief period the TV instantly goes to the 2x5 blinking stage without having to try to turn on the TV first.
- Screen is completely dark at all times.
After visual inspection all electrolytic caps seems fine. No sign of damage on power supply or motherboard. 3 of the caps showed 0 farad on my DMM out of circuit so I swapped two them for same size and voltage rubicon ones, the 3rd which initially was a 25V 390uF I swapped with a 25V 560uF.
The two fuses I've located passed continuity check.
The big 87uF 450V cap shows 320V steady regardless if mainboard and/or led strips are connected or not.
When mainboard is disconnected and AC plugged in pin 14(PS_ON) measure 3.3V, pin 12(A5V) measure 5.4V. All other pins 0V.
When mainboard is connected pin 14(PS_ON) goes to 0V, pin12(A5V) remains at 5.4V. All other pins are still 0V.
Strange to me is that several of the caps in the area close to backlight connector shows 0V as if that part of the board never gets turned on. The 200V 68uF, 25V 560uf (upper right) and 25V 390 uF(upper center next to mainboard connector) are the ones showing 0V.
Things I've tried after reading a lot on the forum:
- Soft reset with remote. No change.
- Unplug mainboard then connecting AC plug. No change. No backlight.
- Unplug backlight. No change.
- Hard reset by shorting EEPROM. No change.
- Tried measuring the wires going to the led strip, result is in the million Ohm range, however I don't know how useful this measurement is or how to interpret it.
- I attempted to access the LED strips for continuity check today but for some reason none of my phillips heads were a good match for the screws so I left it alone before I started stripping heads.
So... what to do? How to rule out the good components and trace down the culprit? Thanks for reading my post.
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