ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

[phillips321]

Hi guys,

Got 2 of these monitors, swapped the inverter board over on them both to confirm that this is the part with the issue.

I am about to replace the 10 35V 100uf capacitors. But i am also under the impression i should check the fuses.

In the photos below i can only see 3 fuses F1, F2 and F3. How do i check these with a mutli meter? Do i simply turn the multimeter to a resistance measurement and then place the probes either side of the fuse? Do i need to desolder them from the board first? What setting do i use on the multimeter, the options i have are 2000k,200k,20k,2000 and 200?



Many thanks

[re-atari]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Check the 3 fuses with your multimeter by placing each probe on either side of the fuse, use resistance measurement (200 Ohm should do) or diode check. You don't need to desolder them first.

Speaking from my own experience with this monitor, if you find one or more fuses are indeed blown (i.e. they show infinite resistance across), the (hard to obtain) mosfets P5504 and P2804 will probably have failed as well (resistance between G-D-S each below 100 or so Ohm). Be aware that these types are not readily available. To fix my inverter I had to salvage 1 of each from an identical inverter board. You can replace the blown 1,5A fuses with ones in a resistor-type housing, the wires on both ends make it easy to solder them in place. Looks a bit crude, but it works.

There are a few threads on this forum dealing with this particular monitor, they contain useful info about possible alternative mosfets. Use the search option.

re-atari

[phillips321]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Fuses F1+F2 were blown. F3 dropped from 1 to 0.16 ohm

OK so i've ordered the replacement parts today from here.

How do i check the resistance between G-D-S??

Multimeter to 200 and which parts are the pins to check?

I've ordered enough to swap everything out but my de-soldering skills are not that great so would only rather swap bits out i know for sure are broke. Visually P2804BDG and P5504EDG look good.

Many thanks

[re-atari]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Fuses F1+F2 were blown. F3 dropped from 1 to 0.16 ohm

That's good, F3 seems to be OK. It would be rather strange if this had failed, as this fuse protects the 12V rail regulated by IC2 (7812). F1 and F2 protect the circuitry around Q3/Q5 and Q4/Q6 resp. As they are both blown, I bet all 4 mosfets are also toast, along with the 2 sets of 4 adjacent caps that are the real cause of it all...

How do i check the resistance between G-D-S?? Multimeter to 200 and which parts are the pins to check?

Set your multimeter to resistance check and measure resistances between all of the 3 pins on every individual mosfet. It doesn't matter which way round you put the red and black terminal. On the P5504 and P2804 the left pin is G(ate), middle pin and the tab on top is D(rain), right pin is S(ource). If any of the 3 measured resistances on any of the mosfets is below 100 Ohm, it's blown and will need to be replaced.

I've ordered enough to swap everything out but my de-soldering skills are not that great so would only rather swap bits out i know for sure are broke. Visually P2804BDG and P5504EDG look good.

Sadly, you can't tell by their outward appearance. The mosfets on my inverter boards didn't show any battle scars either, but on both boards Q4 and Q6 were blown. As were C34, C35, C36 and C38 (quite visibly), and F2.

Desoldering the blown mosfets will be quite a challenge if you use a soldering iron less than 25W. Make sure you don't damage the PCB, don't apply a lot of force on it. I managed to remove the components by putting some fresh solder between the tabs and the PCB, the flux made the mosfets ease away quite nicely. Remove any excess solder with desolder wick afterwards.
Take care when handling and soldering the new mosfets, as electrostatic discharge can easily destroy them.

Out of curiosity: is your 2416w VGA-only, or does it also have a DVI connector? If it has DVI, I'd be interested in a hires photo of the video logic board; the circuitry around the DVI connector in particular.

re-atari

[phillips321]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Ok so I have checked q3 q5 q6 and q4

When the multimeter is set to 200 ohm the only one that does anything is q5, the rest stay at 1 presuming it means no reading or infinite resistance? (it says 1 when I don't touch the red and black probes together).

The following is for q5
g<-->d = 4.1
g<-->s = 4.1
d<-->s = 1.1

I guess that means q5 is dodgy? Should I just replace this one at first as well as the f1 and f2 fuses?

[re-atari]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Ok so I have checked q3 q5 q6 and q4

When the multimeter is set to 200 ohm the only one that does anything is q5, the rest stay at 1 presuming it means no reading or infinite resistance? (it says 1 when I don't touch the red and black probes together).

The following is for q5
g<-->d = 4.1
g<-->s = 4.1
d<-->s = 1.1

I guess that means q5 is dodgy? Should I just replace this one at first as well as the f1 and f2 fuses?

Looks like your in luck, if your measurements are correct only Q5, F1 and F2 appear to be blown. A good mosfet will have infinite resistance when measuring between each of the pins. Your multimeter will indicate this by showing a '1'.
I'd start with replacing Q5, F1 and F2 (besides of course the failed caps), and see how far it gets you. Chances are that's all it takes.

re-atari

[phillips321]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

ok so i only replaced the fuses. Powered the monitor on and F1 blew straight away.

F2 and F3 are still fine.

I guess i need to replace F1 again and look to also now replace Q5.

Is there an easy way to remove it? I have tried to desolder it with a solder sucker but i just cant get it to shift. I also have desolder braid but i just cannot get the solder off.

Any ideas on a better way to remove the mofset?

[re-atari]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Any ideas on a better way to remove the mofset?

My personal experience is, that it indeed is a bit of a fiddly job, but it can be done without damaging the PCB. Use a soldering iron of at least 30W. Try to loosen Q5's bottom pins from their soldering pads with desolder wick or just snip them off with a small side cutter. Then heat up the metal tab on top of the mosfet till it starts to shift sideways. Put a little fresh solder on the pins and at the edges of the tab. Like I already explained, the resin flux will spread the heat you apply, specifically underneath the tab which is where you need it to heat up. After the component is removed, suck up any excess solder using desolder wick.

Handle mosfets with care, you don't want to find out you zapped the replacement with electrostatic after it has been soldered in.

re-atari

[Chyenne]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

You can replace the blown 1,5A fuses with...

I have the same monitor and replaced a blown fuse on the inverter board with a 1,25A fuse first (which immediately blew) and then with a 4A fuse. It has been working for months now. Do you recommend replacing it again with a 1.5A fuse to be safe?

Out of curiosity: is your 2416w VGA-only, or does it also have a DVI connector? If it has DVI, I'd be interested in a hires photo of the video logic board; the circuitry around the DVI connector in particular.

Do these suffice?

[re-atari]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

I have the same monitor and replaced a blown fuse on the inverter board with a 1,25A fuse first (which immediately blew) and then with a 4A fuse. It has been working for months now. Do you recommend replacing it again with a 1.5A fuse to be safe?

As you already have your monitor opened up, I strongly advise that you replace the 10 little 100uF/35V caps on the inverter board with low-ESR ones of a well known brand like Panasonic (if you haven't already done so). On both my 2416's the 4 caps on the topside of the board were blown, taking out 2 hard-to-obtain mosfets (P5504 and P2804) on each board.
Chances are, there is already something wrong with these caps, the original fuse did blow for a reason...
I'd say a 4A fuse is a bit heavy. If you have an opportunity to obtain a 1,5A one, I'd substitute the 4A fuse. It's only a fraction of the cost and effort of finding and installing new mosfets. Desoldering the blown mosfets really was a pain.

Thanks for the photo's! Your video board appears to be completely identical to mine in layout, but my 2416's sadly are VGA-only. In max resolution (1920x1200) that just isn't sharp enough for my taste. I could not quite identify the markings on the components surrounding U2, but I'll check the differences between the boards and (if you don't mind) get back to you.
Looking at the PCB I figured Acer just left out the components in the DVI circuitry, and your photo's confirm this. I already checked the service manual that was posted in another 2416 thread on this forum, but it has a different circuitry. So I had to draw out the VGA and DVI circuitry by hand. Not complicated but a bit tedious.
I'm thinking of soldering in the missing components myself, your photo's will be a great help in finding out which items I need to backfill it with. Looks to be just a 24LC02, a few smd resistors and caps, coil and 2 diodes.
I suspect I need to flash the board with another firmware, however, as my menu doesn't have an option to choose between VGA and DVI. I haven't found any firmware for the 2416 online yet, and flashing it in the eeprom will be 'challenging' as well.

re-atari

[dhutchinson9178]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Hey, re-atari: Just to inform you that I have a AL2416W which has dual inputs. DVI & VGA... There does NOT appear to be any selection that you need to set in the monitor, as to which input you choose to use. Simply connect the cable in question, then the monitor automatically switches to that port. Be advised that you cannot have both DVI & VGA connected at the same time!

[Chyenne]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I already replaced all caps and one mosfet.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=186

Desoldering the blown mosfets really was a pain.

Yes it was!

...but I'll check the differences between the boards and (if you don't mind) get back to you.

Sure.
I will change the fuse soon.
Thanks

[re-atari]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Hey, re-atari: Just to inform you that I have a AL2416W which has dual inputs. DVI & VGA... There does NOT appear to be any selection that you need to set in the monitor, as to which input you choose to use. Simply connect the cable in question, then the monitor automatically switches to that port. Be advised that you cannot have both DVI & VGA connected at the same time!

Thanx for your info! I seem to remember reading a post in another 2416 thread, that there should be a selection VGA/DVI in the OSD. I checked that particular menu item on my 2416's, to find I could only switch DDC on/off there.
I presume this means I cannot connect 2 running PC's to 1 monitor (one via VGA, the other via DVI) and switch between them when needed? If so, that's a real shame. My old (2006) Targa 19" could already do this.
It makes backfilling the DVI port a bit easier, though, as I will not need to flash another firmware. That would require some (de)soldering on the eprom containing the firmware. That would be a real pain!

re-atari

[re-atari]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I already replaced all caps and one mosfet.
I will change the fuse soon.

I replaced the blown 1,5A smd fuses in both my 2416's with resistor type fuses of the same rating, they work like a charm!

As the original type mosfets were impossible to get hold of on this side of the pond, I followed the suggestion from another 2416 thread, and replaced the P5504 and P2804 mosfets with FDD6685 and FDD6690A's. They're working perfectly, and run just as cool as the original ones. 2 pcs of each cost me about € 10. Add to that the cost of 20 caps, and the total damage was just under € 20 (about the same in US$, I guess).
The sheer satisfaction of repairing something on component level: priceless Will be even more priceless if I manage to get the DVI-port installed

re-atari

[jcivils]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Sorry, I know this thread is old. What rating are the fuses F1-F3, marked with a "W"? Possibly anyone still know of a source or suitable replacement?

[1supertech]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

7amp

[jcivils]

Re: ACER AL2416W - Screen does not come on at all.

Thank You!