Dell LCD Monitor

[skip77]

Im new in the forum and found this site searching for information about LCD Monitor failures. I found a video on youtube where a guy was replacing bad caps and it got me started in the right direction, I think. Then I found a thread here in the forum from 2008 from a member who had the same exact power board in his Dell LCD monitor that I have. A very helpful string of responses and discussion around his problem helped me further. Thank you to all that provided such excellent information.

That thread got me far enough along that I ordered replacement caps from digi-key and upgraded to Panasonic vs the low quality Elite caps that had blown in my monitor. I found 5 ckearkt blown and am planning to replace them along with 2 others that show no visible signs of damage but while I am replacing the other 5 it seemed prudent to change them out as well.

I am not experienced soldering circuit boards and would appreciate any tips you guys can offer. My soldering iron is not a temp control kind so I have to use it at its peak temp. Can someone recommend the right type of solder and flux? I will draw a map to show where each capacity goes so that I do not get them confused during the operation.

[selldoor]

Re: Dell LCD Monitor

Hi - You are in the wrong forum but never mind

Here is a reply to a similar request
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...8&postcount=28

If you need more help after you have attempted a fix start a thread for the
monitor in troubleshooting computer monitors stating make and model and the problem - with pictures and we will perhaps be able to help.

[mariushm]

Re: Dell LCD Monitor

Regular 60/40 or 63/37 solder with flux in it would work.

60/40 stays molten a little bit more, while 63/37 variety likes to go completely solid the moment it cools down to a particular temperature (183 celsius). For beginners, the 60/40 would be slightly easier to work with, but the difference is really small, you can really pick any one of these.

But it has to be with flux in it. You should get a variety with no-clean flux or water soluble flux. Fluxes are acids that attack the surface and remove the oxides so that molten solder can chemically interact with the metal of the capacitor leads and the copper on the PCB to form a connection.
A bit of flux remains on board after the solder cools down and connection is made, and this flux can continue to remove microscopic layers of solder and copper from the pcb and potentially damage the solder join in time, hence why it's recommended to be cleaned.

No-clean flux is a special formula of flux that doesn't have to be cleaned, water soluble fluxes can be cleaned simply with water, and other fluxes must be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) or acetone.

For the power supply on your motherboard, it really doesn't matter much which solder type you'll use and which flux because the boards are quite simple and with wide leads and big holes, so you'll have relatively no problems desoldering and soldering new capacitors.

Since you already ordered from Digikey, it may not be convenient to make another order, don't know how much they charge you for shipping.
So I'll link to a few options for you from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-S...ds=solder+wire

http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-S...ds=solder+wire


These are no-clean, 60/40 or 63/37 . the 0.6 oz at 4-5$ is not the best deal money wise, but it's enough solder for you to solder a few capacitors.