Quick question -- how did you get it apart? I saw a Youtube video (in Spanish), and I can see how the front bezel comes off. But it looks like my hands aren't strong enough.
(I can get the top and bottom loose, but not the sides.)
Did you use any metal instruments to pry under the front bezel? Are there any tricks that I don't know?
I just want to get the previous owner's nicotine out of it.
Any help appreciated.
EDIT: Got it apart. Pried the sides with my fingers until I got a thin refrigerator magnet between the bezel and the panel. Then used a 1.5-inch (37mm) putty knife to pry. Wow that was hard.
Last edited by Hondaman; 08-31-2012, 12:17 AM.
Reason: Got it apart.
Hmm. At £7~ a bottle I'm probably better off just buying another board.
Ah well.
If you have really given up on it you could try filling it with superglue
I have heard of people doing that-dont know if it would work but it would be a good experiment.
Yeah the bezel was horrible to get off, I damaged a big strip of plastics, nothing double sided tape can't repair tho.
Was it messed up to begin with? It could be that the video cable has just come loose during reassembly. Check it's pushed in all the way, I made the same mistake.
As for my own problem - would that surely cause some sort of overheat? I might give it a try but I'm probably buying a board anyways.
Just noticed the solder joints are on the bottom and look quite easy to get at, tempted to give it a try. How easy is it to lift off, and how big is the shock risk? Think I'll need to cover the rest of the board in antistatic material.
I thought it was some crazy big SMD component originally.
EDIT: Sod it just remembered the price of the varnish lol.
Im assuming your going to unsolder it with it switched of ha.ha.
If its been off for half an hour shock probability is probably nil but just to make sure you can test voltage across the big cap - meter on 600vDC or more. Should just have a residual perhaps 5 vdc or less. If its more you can discharge by connecting a light bulb across it.
No need to bother about static.
I start by heating the whole area gently with a hair dryer - saves the heat from the iron all being leeched into the board.Find a few different sized things that you can use as levers that will fit into the area - I use a set of watchmaker screwdrivers credit cards plastic knives but remember that underneath the wire is exposed so dont damage it. Stick to the edges.
Start on the easiest end pin to get at and just get the solder to melt and remove as much as you can with soldermop.
insert your smallest wedge in the small gap between board and transformer then melt the solder again easing in and up on the wedge tool you are working in terms of o.5mm or less at first. leave the wedge in and
heat the next pin insert a wedge and so on - I only leave one wedge in place so use the first wedge for the 3rd pin. This is not a job you can do in a hurry - too much pressure and you can crack the body of the inverter.
As this is your first I would plan on taking an hour then if you do it in 30mins you will be well pleased. If you think it will take 10 minutes you will get frustrated with it after 15.
Its not as hard as it looks though it is easier if it is a faulty one then it doesnt matter if it gets more damaged.
EDIT You my find it easier than it sounds - if you can clear most of the solder off the pins it sometimes doesnt take much to get it to release from the holes
Last edited by selldoor; 08-31-2012, 02:07 PM.
Reason: easier than it sounds
Thankyou very much for that information, was always told monitors were extremely high voltage and could retain charge for a long time, been handling the board with high voltage gloves!
I think I'm just gonna leave it and buy another lol. My only worry is if I buy a used board and the seller can't hear the squeal - my brother who's a couple years older than me can't hear the noise due to natural hearing loss etc etc. Then I'm back at square 1.
The bottle of Lacquer is £8 or so and a new board is £14 or so so I think it's a better option.
Also a follow up question about measuring the transformer - can someone confirm to me how to do it?
I have my multimeter set to 2kOhm, and measuring the secondaries again reads 749 on one and 649 on the other, but only very very briefly before it dips to 003, so I think I'm doing it wrong.
my only worry is if I buy a used board and the seller can't hear the squeal - my brother who's a couple years older than me can't hear the noise due to natural hearing loss etc etc. Then I'm back at square 1.
The bottle of Lacquer is £8 or so and a new board is £14 or so so I think it's a better option.
Hi I have almost the same problem. I have the squealing without blubs hooked up for about a second or two. Inverter checks out at each end at. (.562 ohms) Will buzz for about 5-8 seconds then go to black if either one pair or both, either end are connected. http://www.lcdparts.net/Images/LIPS/PTB-1773.jpg This is my board.
Help!!!
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