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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#21 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Belgrade
My Country: Serbia
Line Voltage: 230v 50hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 73
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I do have visual access, but my speakers are at my home, and I'm at work, so I'll do all that when I'm back home!
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#22 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240v-120v 60Hz 200A service drop
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2,133
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Ok!
__________________
Hi-pot test: FAIL |
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#23 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2006
City & State: Near Cincinnati, OH
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
Posts: 704
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Measure the voltage at the V+/V- pins and ground for the LM4558 as Ben7 suggested. If it is not so high as to damage the opamp, then replace the two large caps right after the diodes. If it is too high and damaged the opamp, replace that too.
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#24 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Belgrade
My Country: Serbia
Line Voltage: 230v 50hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 73
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Hi ben7.
OK, i plugged it in again, and watched the speaker cone. It doesn't suck in, nor does it push out. It starts vibrating immideately, first small vibrations, for a second, and then with, i guess, full power. Measured what you told me. Upper black contact measures 0.48, and lower is at zero. Multimeteris set to 20V edit: that was with the speakers turned off. When I turned them on, voltage on the upper is about 9.27 (it's variable, but around that value), and on the lower is constant -0.7. Multimeter is again, on the 20V setting. Those black circles are legs of the two caps (100 uf, 25v). I am looking for the 4558 datasheet so i'll know where are v+ and v- legs. Then i'll do the reading Last edited by bocca; 07-05-2012 at 06:02 AM.. |
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#25 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Belgrade
My Country: Serbia
Line Voltage: 230v 50hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 73
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OK, so here's the datasheet:
http://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pd.../1/LM4558.html What should I measure? And should i do it with the speakers powered on? |
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#26 |
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Warranty Voider
Join Date: Feb 2011
City & State: West Tennessee, USA
Posts: 432
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I see NP on the electrolytics... are those nonpolarized caps?
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#27 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,225
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Pin 4 is B-, pin 8 is B+ on the OP-AMP. You put the black probe of the meter to the DC ground (you can use the RCA input jack outer body for ground, the red will be used fro checking the voltage with speaker on.
__________________
Never stop learning Baisc LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
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#28 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240v-120v 60Hz 200A service drop
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2,133
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Quote:
FYI: I traced the tracks, which was very easy due to the good pictures, and those are the + and - power rails for the opamp. Can you please measure the resistance of R44 (its a 470 ohm resistor)? |
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#29 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
City & State: Belgrade
My Country: Serbia
Line Voltage: 230v 50hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 73
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will be done tonight people. Once again, you have big thank you for your patience!
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#30 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240v-120v 60Hz 200A service drop
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2,133
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