I got this broken HP EliteBook 2570p when I turn it On laptop shows no picture and fan keeps spinning at max. I disassemble it and found one mosfet burned, don't know what that mosfet is and his purpose but I think he is responsible for laptop to not turn On. I attached pictures so if someone knows what that mosfet is, and if he is worth replacing or should I replace the whole motherboard, and any other info. like that would be cool, thanks.
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HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
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Re: HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
What is that n channel mosfet for ?
What I think happend is user from USA (laptop is from USA) use cable that came with adapter and have 3 pin USA power connector that supports 10A 125V ~ (it's labeled on it) and try to use it here in EU with EU adapter and that burn the mosfet, thats what I think but I could be wrong that's just my intuition.
Could it be it's only that mosfet or maybe he burned something along with himself or short, but it's not showing any burns ?Last edited by Thermaltake; 08-19-2017, 11:09 AM.
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Re: HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
Can someone give me sheme for that motherboard PN is 685404-601.
I don't know what n mosfet I need to buy to repair this cause mine is all black, can't read the number from it.Last edited by Thermaltake; 08-20-2017, 01:05 AM.
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Re: HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
The power supply itself should support 100-240V. The rating written on the cord just identifies it as a cable for the US market. To pass regulations, I believe the wire needs to be rated at least 300V RMS. There might be another rating stamped into the cord but harder to see. In any case, this wouldn't have anything to do with the problem.
I could not find a (free) schematic for this model. However, I was able to find a couple cousins. You will find the circuit with the bad MOSFET on page 9 in both.
By the way, for those who are curious... just by looking at the board itself, you can see the 2 MOSFETs and the coil/inductor they connect to. This is the hallmark of a synchronous buck converter circuit. The larger MOSFET is always the low-side one (connected between the output and ground), because that one spends a much longer time turned on. The smaller one (the one destroyed on your board) is the high-side MOSFET (connected between the output and the supply voltage). On many boards they just use ones that are the same size though. In that case, you just have to find out what each is connected to.
Q6300 is indeed an N-Channel MOSFET. The schematics show a FDMC8884, but that's probably not what was on this actual board. There are many other ones that will work too. It should be quite easy to find a donor board to steal one from. If you want to know which part they actually used on your board, just look at the other buck converter circuits. They probably all/mostly use the same high-side MOSFET.
The fact that the MOSFET burned up in that way means there is a chance that the full supply voltage was connected to the 1.05V output rail. That could have damaged a number of things, including the CPU. You can try replacing the MOSFET and see if it helps. But don't waste too much time on it.
In some cases, the controller chip is damaged and will just keep frying the high-side MOSFET. So, you might have to replace it (U6300) and the MOSFET at the same time.
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Re: HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
Originally posted by BlueMidnight View PostThe power supply itself should support 100-240V. The rating written on the cord just identifies it as a cable for the US market. To pass regulations, I believe the wire needs to be rated at least 300V RMS. There might be another rating stamped into the cord but harder to see. In any case, this wouldn't have anything to do with the problem.
I could not find a (free) schematic for this model. However, I was able to find a couple cousins. You will find the circuit with the bad MOSFET on page 9 in both.
By the way, for those who are curious... just by looking at the board itself, you can see the 2 MOSFETs and the coil/inductor they connect to. This is the hallmark of a synchronous buck converter circuit. The larger MOSFET is always the low-side one (connected between the output and ground), because that one spends a much longer time turned on. The smaller one (the one destroyed on your board) is the high-side MOSFET (connected between the output and the supply voltage). On many boards they just use ones that are the same size though. In that case, you just have to find out what each is connected to.
Q6300 is indeed an N-Channel MOSFET. The schematics show a FDMC8884, but that's probably not what was on this actual board. There are many other ones that will work too. It should be quite easy to find a donor board to steal one from. If you want to know which part they actually used on your board, just look at the other buck converter circuits. They probably all/mostly use the same high-side MOSFET.
The fact that the MOSFET burned up in that way means there is a chance that the full supply voltage was connected to the 1.05V output rail. That could have damaged a number of things, including the CPU. You can try replacing the MOSFET and see if it helps. But don't waste too much time on it.
In some cases, the controller chip is damaged and will just keep frying the high-side MOSFET. So, you might have to replace it (U6300) and the MOSFET at the same time.Last edited by Thermaltake; 08-24-2017, 01:05 PM.
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Re: HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
You give up too easily.Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
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Re: HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
Originally posted by Th3_uN1Qu3 View PostYou give up too easily.Last edited by Thermaltake; 08-24-2017, 02:57 PM.
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Re: HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
Sometimes i can relate to that - i have a 55" LG TV with backlights on but no picture i have wanted to fix for almost 1 year now, but since the panel looks good i'll likely just bite the bullet and buy a replacement main like i did for my 37".
The only reason i haven't done that until now is that it's pretty expensive (around 100 Euro) and hard to sell on if the panel turns out to have issues, but since i moved in with my girlfriend there is a big white wall in our bedroom, opposite to the bed, that just screams "big TV goes here". I haven't bothered to put up the 37" because it would be too small for the distance, but then i would get used to it and never fix the big one.
Tinkering with stuff is great when you have a lot of time on your hands and no deadlines, but life eventually gets in the way. That's not a bad thing, though.Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
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Re: HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
Originally posted by Th3_uN1Qu3 View PostSometimes i can relate to that - i have a 55" LG TV with backlights on but no picture i have wanted to fix for almost 1 year now, but since the panel looks good i'll likely just bite the bullet and buy a replacement main like i did for my 37".
The only reason i haven't done that until now is that it's pretty expensive (around 100 Euro) and hard to sell on if the panel turns out to have issues, but since i moved in with my girlfriend there is a big white wall in our bedroom, opposite to the bed, that just screams "big TV goes here". I haven't bothered to put up the 37" because it would be too small for the distance, but then i would get used to it and never fix the big one.
Tinkering with stuff is great when you have a lot of time on your hands and no deadlines, but life eventually gets in the way. That's not a bad thing, though.
Exactly every word you said.
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Re: HP EliteBook 2570p turns off after 5 seconds
Originally posted by BlueMidnight View PostThe power supply itself should support 100-240V. The rating written on the cord just identifies it as a cable for the US market. To pass regulations, I believe the wire needs to be rated at least 300V RMS. There might be another rating stamped into the cord but harder to see. In any case, this wouldn't have anything to do with the problem.
I could not find a (free) schematic for this model. However, I was able to find a couple cousins. You will find the circuit with the bad MOSFET on page 9 in both.
By the way, for those who are curious... just by looking at the board itself, you can see the 2 MOSFETs and the coil/inductor they connect to. This is the hallmark of a synchronous buck converter circuit. The larger MOSFET is always the low-side one (connected between the output and ground), because that one spends a much longer time turned on. The smaller one (the one destroyed on your board) is the high-side MOSFET (connected between the output and the supply voltage). On many boards they just use ones that are the same size though. In that case, you just have to find out what each is connected to.
Q6300 is indeed an N-Channel MOSFET. The schematics show a FDMC8884, but that's probably not what was on this actual board. There are many other ones that will work too. It should be quite easy to find a donor board to steal one from. If you want to know which part they actually used on your board, just look at the other buck converter circuits. They probably all/mostly use the same high-side MOSFET.
The fact that the MOSFET burned up in that way means there is a chance that the full supply voltage was connected to the 1.05V output rail. That could have damaged a number of things, including the CPU. You can try replacing the MOSFET and see if it helps. But don't waste too much time on it.
In some cases, the controller chip is damaged and will just keep frying the high-side MOSFET. So, you might have to replace it (U6300) and the MOSFET at the same time.
Had this happen to my 2570p a while ago as i plugged in its AC adapter as the battery was fully drained then turned it on initially nothing happened so i checked if i connected the AC adapter properly and it was so i tried turning it on again and it made its usual boot actions (100% fan, LCD blacks out, fan subsides) but then turned off at the point the boot screen was to be displayed on and was greeted instead by a wafting burning smell coming from the laptop so i yanked the battery and wall adapter out. Came across this site and sure enough a peek through the case has a burned mosfet but also mounting pads C6502 and 6503 looking like its missing a capacitor.
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