MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

[wfsdno]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Okay, I'll replace them... the KZG's and Luxon's.

What brand and where is best place to buy them?

Roger

[PCBONEZ]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

I dont have the one you marked with a GREEN line.

Yes, mine doesn't have that one either. That's what I was saying.


I use a 60 watt iron for 'off' and sometimes switch to a a 40 watt for 'on'.
Usually prefer a chisel tip between 1.5 and 2.5 mm wide.
Everyone has different preferences.
You'll have to play with it to find out what works best for you.
-
Frys Electronics [if you have one near] has a decent basic 60 watt for like $15.
- The el'cheapo $8 Chinese 60 watt irons will actually work if you don't do it often. Their tips crap up pretty quick and need more cleaning, the handles get hot, and the cord is annoyingly short and junk,,, but they do at least work.

Get some Rosin fluxed solder braid [aka wick].
2mm [0.08"] or 2.54m [0.100"] mm wide seems to work best for me.

KZG can be replaced by:
Rubycon MBZ, Sanyo WG, Nichicon HM, or Panasonic FL or FJ
- are equivelent replacements with ~ the same ESR/Ripple as KZG.
Rubycon MCZ or Nichicon HN would be upgrades to better ESR/Ripple.

For the 1000uF 6.3v and 10v KZG only:
If you use the 10v 1000uF then Panasonic FM are a good spec match.
The 1000uF 10v FM's use a taller can which brings their ESR into KZG's range.
[Some of those 1000uF KZG are near slots. Make sure the height height of replacements won't block a slot so bad you can't use it.]

The G-Luxon are SM series which isn't even low ESR. - But they probably should be.
Chemicon LXZ, Panasonic FC, Nichicon PW [or anything better] are good choices and would be upgrades.
.

[wfsdno]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Thanks again, and sorry for beating a dead horse.....

See if I got this right.... I dont know if website means much but thought I would throw it in. I couldnt find any 10v that you listed on Mouser. Would be nice to get all from one place. Any other ideas to get the 10v from Mouser? I found some, but not the Panasonic FM one you suggested.

These are all from Mouser Electronics

G-Luxon 6.3v 470uF ---- Nichicon UPW0J471MPD 6.3v 470uF

KZG 6.3v 1000uF ---- Nichicon UHN0J102MPD 6.3v 1000uF

KZG 16v 470uF ---- Nichicon UHN1C471MPD 16v 470uF

This one is from DigiKey.com

KZG 10v 470uF ---- Panasonic EEU-FM1A471 10v 470uF

Roger

[PCBONEZ]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Thanks again, and sorry for beating a dead horse.....

See if I got this right.... I dont know if website means much but thought I would throw it in. I couldnt find any 10v that you listed on Mouser. Would be nice to get all from one place. Any other ideas to get the 10v from Mouser? I found some, but not the Panasonic FM one you suggested.

These are all from Mouser Electronics

G-Luxon 6.3v 470uF ---- Nichicon UPW0J471MPD 6.3v 470uF

KZG 6.3v 1000uF ---- Nichicon UHN0J102MPD 6.3v 1000uF

KZG 16v 470uF ---- Nichicon UHN1C471MPD 16v 470uF

This one is from DigiKey.com

KZG 10v 470uF ---- Panasonic EEU-FM1A471 10v 470uF

Roger

That works.

Since you are going with Mouser for others you could use UHM1A471MPD from Mouser instead of the FM from Digikey to replace the KZG 10v 470uF.
- Cuts the shipping costs to buy at one shop.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...YRGU497V2sE%3d
.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

I forgot to mention earlier.

Get .022" diameter solder.

The more common .032" is just a tad on the big side and it makes things harder because it takes longer to melt and flow.

Might not seem like a big difference but if you are working on a board and switch from one to the other you definitely notice the difference.

0.015" works okay too but the feed rate can be on the fast side on normal sized joints.
It's not a bad idea to have some 0.015" around for smaller joints when they come up.
.

[wfsdno]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Awesome! Thanks Pcbonez, I will order my parts and attempt to fix, wish me luck!!

Roger

[DixiePenguin]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

HI,
You may still wind up with a DOA. I had the Ms-7207 board in an eMachine, can't remember the version, but the Southbridge chipset ran very very hot on some and did fail. Mine was painful to touch even with heatsink. Problem may be connected to crappy caps elsewhere on board. I found weak caps and replaced all but board would not resurrect. A shame because I really liked the board.

[wfsdno]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Thanks for the input, this is my first board to try this on. I've got all parts in and been reading all I could on this site about the right way and practicing taking out caps on old boards (modems, etc) to try to get the hang of it. We'll see..........
Roger

[PCBONEZ]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

You have the right attitude.
Even if it doesn't work you'll have learned a valuable new skill.

[wfsdno]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

I'm Back!
Okay, completed the Cap swap. Assembled. Nothing... power up light would come on, fans run.... nothing else.

Removed board again, checked that I got all caps in correct placement (+ / -), checked some of my soldering, touched up a couple joints, assembled again, this time.... Lights came on, fans and hard drive light started flashing with 4 blinks. Same condition as when I started last week......

Then, I turned it off, turned it on again....... nothing except fans run then fans switch off and main power light starts flashing..... thats it......

Now what?????

Thanks! Roger

[wfsdno]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Well, Changed the power supply. Back to step one. Everything powers on but hard drive light blinks 4 times and thats it.

Any other suggestions?

Had fun doing it, think I did okay since the computer is back to where it started....

Roger

[PCBONEZ]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Have you tried with on-board video and no PCI-E card installed?
.

[wfsdno]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

I did. I removed all cards that were previously installed.(video, modem(remember those?)). Even tried with floppy unpluged(both power and cable). Still same thing......

About the only caps not replaced were the few Ruby's and the Gold/Black ones next to the CPU.

Roger

[PCBONEZ]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

The Black/Gold ones don't say HN(M) do they?

Have you reset the CMOS?

[wfsdno]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Thanks PCBONEZ.

All they have on them is a funny(egyptian looking) M in a box.

How do you reset the CMOS??

Roger

[PCBONEZ]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Most boards have a jumper you move but I think your board has a switch.
It's usually easier just to remove the mobo battery for 10 seconds or so.
[With no power going to PSU from AC.]

The point is to remove power from the CMOS chip so it resets to all defaults.
.

[wfsdno]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Turns out I did do that, remove the battery for about 30 minutes, not realizing the purpose.

Sounds like I screwed???

[pfrcom]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

Battery is needed to prevent contents of CMOS, like BIOS settings, from being lost when power is turned off

Usually a board will start without a CMOS battery, using default BIOS settings, but there are exceptions

If it doesn't start without a battery, try fitting a known good battery and see if it starts then

[momaka]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

All they have on them is a funny(egyptian looking) M in a box.

That would be M for Matsushita... a.k.a. Panasonic
They make excellent capacitors.
Your's have a "T"-like stamp on top, correct?

[PCBONEZ]

Re: MSI-7207 (K8NGM2-L) version 1.0

No, you WANT to reset the CMOS after a cap job.
In fact you should remove the battery when you work on the board.