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Hannspree HF237 (2 seconds to black)

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    Hannspree HF237 (2 seconds to black)

    Hi all,

    I have a Hannspree HF237 that I acquired from a friend. The monitor seems to have the typical symptoms of the "2 seconds to black" detailed in this thread. I will try to provide as much information as possible. Pictures are attached at the end.

    Symptoms: The monitor turns on as normal (blacklights and lcd) with an image. Soon after (varying amounts of time, sometimes a few seconds, sometimes 1 minute) the backlights will increase in brightness then go completely out.

    Initial Diagnostics: After disassembly and visual inspection, nothing looks inherently wrong (No bulging capacitors, no blown resistors, no cold solder joints). In case there were any bad solder joints, I went over all the connections with an iron and new solder to no effect. Strangely enough, the monitor seemed to work for a longer period of time outside the plastic case (tested for ~1hour), and if I put the case back on then the backlights would go out within a few seconds. This oddity originally made me think it was an overheating issue, though I have not been able to confirm this.

    Further Inspection: Taking measurements from the power section of the board shows that fuse, bridge rectifier, and both the 5V and 16V output are good and stable, as well as the 5V output after the optocoupler. This leads me to believe the problem resides in the inverter section of the board.

    The fuse on the inverter sections gives a resistance reading of 0.2 Ohm, so it is still good. I also get a good 5V and 16V from the output of the schottky diodes. I will further go on to describe individual components for the inverter section.

    Resistors: (measurements taken in circuit, so some measurements may be inaccurate)
    Code:
    Identifier    nominal    measured
    R818       270 Ohm    264 Ohm
    R819       10 KOhm    9.94 KOhm
    R817       10 Ohm     10.3 Ohm
    R816       10 Ohm     10.4 Ohm
    R823       10 KOhm    9.55 KOhm
    R824       2 KOhm     1.984 KOhm
    R822       10.5 KOhm   10.01 KOhm
    R825       270 Ohm    265.7 Ohm
    R4         680 Ohm    674 Ohm
    R11        820 Ohm     728 Ohm
    R6         680 Ohm     675 Ohm
    R29        820 Ohm     725 Ohm
    R16        470 Ohm     461 Ohm
    R24        470 Ohm     467 Ohm
    Most of the resistor values look close to their nominal values, so this makes me think that they are all OK. There are a few that look to be outside their tolerance ranges, but I contribute this to taking measurements while the components are still in circuit. To be sure, it would be best to remove them, however this would be time consuming, and since there are no scorch marks, it looks to be a waste of time.

    Diodes:
    Code:
    Identifier    Voltage Drop
    ZD801      0.69 V
    D9         0.556 V
    D2         0.556 V
    D8         0.554 V
    D4         0.555 V
    The voltage drops across the diodes look correct as well.

    Capacitors:
    I have not been able to take accurate measurements of the capacitors with my multimeter (likely because they are still in circuit), but these are the following capacitors. The caps look fine visually, and I have not replaced them; however I will likely replace them soon just to be sure.
    4, 470uF 25V 105 deg Su,scon (which can sometimes be a suspect brand)
    2, 680uF 25V 105 deg Samxon
    2, 1000uF 25V 105 deg Lelon

    Transformers:
    There are 2 SPW-106 inverter transformers with 6 pins for the primary windings and 2 pins for the secondary windings. Each of the primary winding on the transformers give readings ~0.3 Ohm - 0.8 Ohm. The secondary windings give readings of ~450 Ohm. The primary to secondary measurements give and "0.F" or open circuit, which is what is should be. (Correct?). If the transformers are bad, does anyone know where to find replacement transformers? I have looked and the best I can find is a SPW-105 on ebay. The SPW-106 I found does not have the same pinout as the ones on my board.

    My final thought was that the PWM controller for the inverter section might be bad, but I have not taken it to the lab at MSU to check with an O-scope. It is an INL837GN, which is relatively easy to find a supplier, however extremely difficult to find a datasheet. The closest thing I could find was this schematic.

    I would love to hear your thoughts on what my next step should be. Thank you for your time and effort.

    -Pat
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Sierra117; 07-09-2013, 01:49 PM.

    #2
    Re: Hannspree HF237 (2 seconds to black)

    I assume that when the backlights fail the Monitor still recognises the PC Input signal ??the next step ,as you have done very well so far,is to check the Backlights !! Have you any spare ones you can use for testing, they can be the same size or smaller to test ??

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Hannspree HF237 (2 seconds to black)

      Yes, The PC input still displays the image on the LCD. It is just the blacklights that go out. I do have a second (smaller 17'') monitor that I could use to test the CCFLs; however the condition of that monitor is also suspect, as it does not even power on. Is it possible to blow the smaller CCFLs when connecting to the larger display circuitry? I haven't worked with CCFLs much.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Hannspree HF237 (2 seconds to black)

        UPDATE: Testing the CCFLs from the smaller 17" monitor seemed to work. So it looks like the inverter board is fine and I have 1 or 2 bad CCFLs... I will pull them out when I get a chance, and upload pictures.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Hannspree HF237 (2 seconds to black)

          Well done,be very very caerful not to damage the Screen...it is very easy to do.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Hannspree HF237 (2 seconds to black)

            And also make sure there is NO dust inbetween the screen layers or it will look horrible.

            canadaboy25
            canadaboy25

            -Sometimes the light at the end of a tunnel is an on-coming train

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Hannspree HF237 (2 seconds to black)

              UPDATE: After removing the CCFL lamps, I was able to isolate which lamp was the issue, which was also making an arcing sound when powered on. The bulbs themselves were actually just fine, and it was only the wiring that was faulty. You can see the wire shielding is burnt on one side in the pictures. I ordered some replacement wire from ccflwarehouse and replaced the wiring. The monitor works good as new. I was also missing the stand for the monitor so I got dell stand with the VESA mount, and it works great.
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Hannspree HF237 (2 seconds to black)

                Great job, very typical failure on lamp assembly.
                Never stop learning
                Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                Inverter testing using old CFL:
                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                TV Factory reset codes listing:
                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                Comment

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