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#221 |
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Unknown
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 3,364
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All of the FSPs I've seen from the last few years have had DM311 based 5vsb circuits, even the low end ones with whimpy heat sinks and out of spec ripple.
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I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!! Main PC: Core i5 660 3.33GHz, Gigabyte GA-P55-UD3R, 4GB Kingston DDR3 1333, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, nVidia GTX295 1760MB, Antec 1200 Case, Delta DPS-750CB 750W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows XP Pro. Main Laptop: Lenovo Thinkpad T60: Core 2 T2500 2GHz, 2GB DDR2, 80GB HDD, DVD RW, Intel Graphics, Windows XP Pro. 2nd Laptop: Toshiba Satellite A200: Core Duo 1.73GHz, 2GB DDR2, 60GB HDD, DVD RW, nVidia GF Go 7300 Graphics, OpenSUSE 12.2, Fan Mod |
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#222 |
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Badcaps Veteran
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None of them have it... They all use the same pi filter for the 5vsb... I've got 20-pin 250 watt, and recent 300/350-watt 24-pin models (FSP300-60THN, FSP350-PN), Remarked FSPs from Aopen, etc... They all have an almost identical 5vsb circuit and there's always two 8mm Teapo SC caps there, and they're almost always what's stopping the thing from working. I replace them with 6.3v 1200uF KZEs because I can get them cheap and they have a better ripple rating.
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...Their plight, in fact is even worse, they don't realize that they're cantonists, they think they're free men. What a slavery that is - to confuse slavery for light, and bitter darkness for bright light. -Rabbi Menachem Mendel Schneersohn |
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#223 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 3,158
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The PI filter has nothing to do with the DM311 chip. The DM311 chip would be on the primary side of the PSU. Look for an 8 pin DIP chip. If those FSPs are single-transistor forward converter designs (and they probably are), you might see two 8 pin DIP chips (one being the PWM controller).
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#224 |
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Unknown
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 3,364
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Omni 400W
Small primary caps, No PI filter coils, not enough caps on the secondary, and the caps which are there are all from unknown brands, and it blew up at 320W on the load tester |
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#225 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
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Quote:
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#226 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
City & State: JKL
My Country: Finland
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 39
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Some nasty capacitors in a old Fortron PSU.
Surprisingly, this PSU was pulled from a working machine, and the voltages were stable... And the only capacitor that isn't bulging is Fuhjyyu, oh well. |
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#227 | |
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Badcaps User
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Quote:
Ironic, considering Fuhjyyu is at the bottom of the chain pretty much when it comes to capacitor quality. At least that has Panasonic primary capacitors, though those heatsinks are not impressive but at least they're not finless. I'm not surprised that it was still stable. I think it's because FSP (at least in that timeframe of PSUs) PSUs are well designed. I had a FSP300-60BTV (it had similar heatsinks) that worked fine outside of some cold booting problems; (refusing to boot unless I let 5VSB sit for two minutes or so before turning on the computer) it was later discovered that a Fuhjyyu bloated on the 5VSB rail, and that PSU had a mingling of Jamicon, Teapo, and Fuhjyyu capacitors (Teapo LXK primaries, 680uF/200V). It still worked for many years. I also noticed that your PSU has less than 1A on the 5VSB rail... not sure how common that is, for usually I don't see 5VSB as rated below 1A in PSUs, even the older ones. |
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#228 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
City & State: Melbourne
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 104
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Same story with my Teapo-equipped FSP200-60ATV I scrapped a few weeks ago. It worked right up to the day when I had to power off the PC (it's on 24/7), and it never came back on afterwards. I'm now seeing how long a Fuhjyyu-equipped "420W" Thermal Master will hold up in the same system.
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#229 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,366
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Quote:
Looks like some LC to me. It even has input rectifier, thermistor and some stuff, it does not seem to be so bad, and 320 W is something you can work with, right…?
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Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
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#230 |
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Unknown
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 3,364
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Nah, I've got lots of spare 400W+ PSUs, so a cheap 250 Watter isn't really much good to me.
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#231 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240v-120v 60Hz 200A service drop
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,970
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Time to blow the rest of it up :P
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Hi-pot test: FAIL |
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#232 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
City & State: Washington
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,121
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Is that light blue cap a Lelon? The PSU looks honestly rated. Are those primary Panasonic caps still good?
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#233 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240v-120v 60Hz 200A service drop
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,970
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#234 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
City & State: Washington
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,121
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Quote:
Ohhh that's right, YEC are also light blue... YUK indeed ![]() |
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#235 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 3,158
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Quote:
I just fixed the 2-transistor 5vsb circuit of an old 235-watter. The output caps were failed, and putting any load over 100 mA would make the voltage oscillate all over the place between 4V and 5V with lots of audible noise. When that happened, the second rail produced by the 5VSB transformer (normally 12V - used for powering the driving transformer for the BJTs on the main power supply) would jump to over 30V! That was all bad news for the 16V, 47uF cap that was filtering that rail. I then changed the output caps on the 5VSB with 2x very low ESR caps (one is actually motherboard grade), and the 5VSB is now solid as a rock and stable right at 5.01V, even with 800 mA of load. I have no doubts it will do fine at higher loads. |
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#236 | |
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Badcaps User
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Quote:
As for those Teapo capacitors, it could just be an inadequate batch as well. But Teapos may also fail around or on the 5VSB rail because the 5VSB rail (I might be wrong on this) is more often active than any other rail on a PSU (as it is still active when the system is 'soft-off' or 'soft-on"), so the capacitors on that rail are almost always working to some extent unless AC power is cut. |
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#237 |
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Unknown
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 3,364
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No, it wasn't in spec. The switchers exploded at 320W. They were 13007s, and that's usually where they blow up.
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#238 |
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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 16
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I have one of those Omni 400W PSUs which I want to use to power an old P4 machine. Was the ripple bad? Can you suggest some modifications I can make to improve it? What caps should I add/replace on the output filtering? Many thanks.
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#239 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240v-120v 60Hz 200A service drop
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,970
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Seeing how very few filter caps there were, I would guess that the ripple was terrible. It's also missing PI filter coils.
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#240 |
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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 16
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What uF and voltage ratings should I use to add/replace the secondary filtering caps? It does have resistors instead of coils - will this suffice for what will probably be a 250W max load system?
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