Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

[japlytic]

Microsoft Xbox 360 (Hipro HP-AW175EF3P)

3x 2200uF 16V Chemi-Con KZE with one 1000uF 16V Chemi-Con KY.
1200uF 6.3V Rubycon ZL and 470uF 10V LTEC LZF on +5VSB before output MOSFET.
180uF 420V Elite GM on primary side.
2x STP11NK50 primary side MOSFETs in push-pull configuration.
2x STPS3045CW rectifiers in parallel for +12V 14.2A output.

A fan is fitted inside this unit (never saw a "brick" style power supply with a fan before!)

[Behemot]

Originally Posted by japlytic

A fan is fitted inside this unit (never saw a "brick" style power supply with a fan before!)

You haven't seen my brick mode than:-D Not that it helped to solve the problem, but…now I believe it runs with greater efficiency and can even provide slightly higher output power (since rectifiers do not run on like 100 °C ).

[momaka]

Originally Posted by japlytic

Microsoft Xbox 360 (Hipro HP-AW175EF3P)

How did you get yours opened that far? Or did yours look like that once you opened the plastic case?
I have a dead Lite-On built Xbox 360 brick that I can't fully open since it has thick metal EMI shields soldered all around it. It's the 203W version.

Yes, they indeed have a tiny fan inside. I can hear it whirl when I jump-start my other working Xbox 360 power brick.

[Jooo]

HP 365W proprietary PSU

[ben7]

Originally Posted by Jooo

HP 365W proprietary PSU

Awesome! And look! A TOP244 on the 5V standby!

Atleast the caps are semi-decent in there.

-Ben

[ncovert]

Hipro HP-P150CLXA6 Rev: 02 150W ATX power supply.
Matsushita primary caps, G-Luxon secondaries, bridge rectifier and input filtering. Another PSU with the fan blowing air into the PC case, just like the Lead Year one I posted, except it was from 1997, while this Hipro is from '99.

[Wester547]

^ Hipro have done better.

I have this power supply (these images aren't mine) but I'm wondering if the Hipro below can do 300W in earnest (it's a HP-P3527F3 that came with a dead eMachine T6536 I used to have; better than coming with a Bestec, I suppose)? I don't think it has a PFC. It only has two Teapo 470uF/200v capacitors on the primaries rated at 85C.



Can it do what the label says?

Or is it more like 280W continuous, 300W max?



I see lots of Teapos in there otherwise. It's not easy to tell from the provided picture but does anyone know what else is in there cap-wise (if you click on the last image you can still zoom in more)? Does this look like a well designed PSU or have Hipro done infinitely better and is this more like a Huntkey or Bestec?

EDIT: Thanks Scenic and Behemot.

[Behemot]

Yes, it can. The remaining 20 W is for +5 V SB, -5 V and -12 V

Last image does not show.

[Scenic]

reuploaded the 2nd pic to my webspace, as zol.com.cn has a hotlinking protection in place..

http://bambooz.pytalhost.net/badcaps/HP-P3527F3.jpg

[ncovert]

Got some more units in today. These are PSU's pulled from DVR/TiVo boxes.

3Y Power Technology CP-1074 from a DirecTV DVR R10 (made in 2005). 4 diodes, but input filtering. UCC primary cap (330uf), and a mix of Ltec's and Teapo's on the secondary.
Voltages and currents:
+3.4V 2A
+5V 2.275A
+7.5V 0.75A
+12V 2.5A
Max output 54W

You can see that I didn't take it out of the case, because I was lazy. But I did with the one below (it's easier to do).

AUTEC UPS61-1004-T from a Philips HDR212 (made in 2000). Bridge rectifier and input filtering. Hitachi HP3 primary cap (220uf), and UCC secondaries.
Voltages and currents:
+3.3V 4A
+5V 2A
+12V 3A
+32V 5mA (no, I didn't mean 5A)
No labelled total output

[Behemot]

Are those Chemi-Cons or Teapos?

[ncovert]

On which one and primary or secondary?

[Behemot]

Those brown of course:-) Seconds secondary.

[ncovert]

Originally Posted by Behemot

Those brown of course:-) Seconds secondary.

Chemi-con.

[c_hegge]

Yup. Remember, Teapo are usually green and have small bars in the vent stamps.

[Behemot]

Well maybe not Teapo, I don't even remember all those crappy brands, but some look similar. Jamicon maybe? Damn, who gives a poo, change it on sight

[ben7]

Got a dusty old compaq oem ATX PSU at school, hopefully I can get a few pics next week, its full of rubycon and NCC

-Ben

[Heihachi_73]

Nichicon switching power supply from an older model PlayStation 2 (SCPH-39002), unsurprsingly, all electrolytic caps are from Nichicon as well (the non-electrolytics are Panasonic however).

A "recap" of this PCB:

C003: LS 100µF 400V CE 85°C N0113
C022: VZC3 1µF 50V

C010: PJC3 22µF 35V
C011: VZC4 0.1µF 50V
C012: VZC4 0.1µF 50V
C016: VZC4 0.1µF 50V
C106: VZC3 1µF 50V
C107: VZC4 0.1µF 50V

C102: HDF2 470µF 25V
C103: HDF2 470µF 25V
C104: HDF2 470µF 25V
C105: HDF2 470µF 25V
C108: PJE4 150µF 25V

This PSU was still in working condition when removed from the damaged PS2 (I found this system on the nature strip with a few missing screws and had a broken connector and ribbon cable for the power/reset button). Being an older PS2 though, the DVD drive was probably toast anyway; I have no way of testing it though. I have scavenged the 7V Matsushita fan from it since, so it's no longer complete.

[momaka]

Doesn't look like the PS2 used that much power judging by that power supply. The PS3 PSUs are a completely different animal, though. I think I do have 1 somewhere. Will open it when I get to it someday and post pics.

[Agent24]

Originally Posted by Heihachi_73

This PSU was still in working condition when removed from the damaged PS2 (I found this system on the nature strip with a few missing screws and had a broken connector and ribbon cable for the power/reset button). Being an older PS2 though, the DVD drive was probably toast anyway; I have no way of testing it though. I have scavenged the 7V Matsushita fan from it since, so it's no longer complete.

Even if the DVD drive is dead you can run backups of games from hard drive if you have the right software. (That's what I do with mine now, the HDD adapter was cheaper than a new laser and loads faster)