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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 7
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Hello,
i would like to thank anyone who responds for their time.I am new to the site but have used some info to fix a few tvs. i am just learning and doing this as a hobby and to add some lcd tv's to my house thanks again,joe |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
City & State: Manteo, NC
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 70
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Set your meter TO 200 ohm scale. The inverter side will test low resistance at those two pins as they are connected together via printed trace on board and through the windings of transformers. Don't measure the voltage with your meter, as your meter can be damaged and you will run the risk of getting shocked with high voltage. Also, don't measure resistance with the power turned on. On the bulb connector, the pins will have a low resistance. Hope this helps.
One other thing, don't rule out the other board being bad as well. |
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#3 |
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 7
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thanks for your help- i have found other issues that may lead to the repair of my tv.I am adding this info in hopes of getting a better direction of where to check for problems. when plugged in and turned on the power light slowly flashes red twice then goes solid blue. If i plug in my ps3 via hdmi in hdmi one with the inverters unpluged i get image BUT NO SOUND AT ALL then if i switch to hdmi 2 or 3 i get nothing no video or sound. Is it possible its a bad audio video mainboard causing my backlights to shutdown and lose audio? if so is there a place on the board to start testing for a failed part? thanks again for the help.
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
City & State: Manteo, NC
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 70
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In order to get more and better responses, take pictures of all boards in the tv and post them using "Manage Attachments" on the post page.
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#5 |
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 7
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here is my master inverter that i believe is causing the problem.With the inverter disconnected from the bulbs and turned on i cant get a voltage reading on my meter it just errors out my meter and puts it in hold mode.If i do the slave on ac voltage the meter reads 33volts for a sec then drops to almost nothing.
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#6 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2009
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist
Posts: 7,013
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Quote:
PlainBill
__________________
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored. Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic. |
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#7 |
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 7
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hello,
thanks, i was measuring the output at the pink and white wires going to the bulbs. thanks |
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#8 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2009
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist
Posts: 7,013
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Quote:
PlainBill |
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#9 |
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 7
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yikes! how is the proper way to test inverter output? other than from very very far away!
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#10 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 14,692
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#11 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2009
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist
Posts: 7,013
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Tom66 is correct. Although in a sense you have already tested the master output and it is good. Now the slave inverter SHOULD have behaved the same way.
PlainBill |
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#12 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: Alberta
My Country: Canada
Line Voltage: 120VAC 61Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,484
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Quote:
__________________
36 Monitors, 3 TVs, 4 Laptops, 1 motherboard, 1 Printer, 1 iMac, 2 hard drive docks and one IP Phone repaired so far.... |
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#13 |
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 7
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hello,
i know i havent given any photos that would be of help to get an idea of what is going on and i also know my information makes more sense in my head as i type it than it does when you read it but i thank everyone for thier help so far and for putting up with me. I was doing some poking around tonight on the tv and happen to come across something and wanted to know if anyone can give me an idea of if the way this is reading is wrong or right. on the connector from the power supply to the mainboard there is a pin marked acd (ac detect i am guessing?) now the connector has another pin across from the acd that is marked error. When i test to ground on the power supply connector i dont show a ground on either of these two pins but when i check on the mainboard where this connector goes to the error pin is showing ground.Is that normal? or is this causing me an issue with my backlights? I also dont understand that when i plug the tv in without touching anybuttons the status light flashes red twice then goes solid blue and thats when the backlights come on for a sec buzzing and shut off and light stays blue.If i hit the power button again the tv repeats the flashing and on for sec with buzzing then off. any help would be great but again i know i get confusing and its hard to understand a problem across the net.just looking for ideas to look at. i will add a pic of the connector now. thanks |
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#14 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
City & State: chesterland Ohio
Posts: 390
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All of the problems I have had with these AU-OPTRONICS panels were bad ccfl bulbs and slave inverters.
You will get symptoms of a bad inverter (2 seconds to black) even if you un-plug the slave inverter. The backlight will stay on longer (3 seconds). I was getting 1200 volts on my industrial fluke. If you don`t make a solid firm connection it will ark and smoke the test meter. (I have done this in the past) When you take apart the panel you will see the bad ccfls. (darkened or burnt spots) The slave inverter will have shorted mosfets. |
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#15 |
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 7
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hello,
thanks for the response.I did take apart the panel and there was broken bulbs but from the buld holder board had started on fire on the master inverters side. i replaced the board with a used on and replaced the bulbs from another 42 inch lg but the board started arching at the exact same spot! i shut it off but can not determine why this is occuring. can you tell me how you check the mosfets? i had read you read the ohms and they should read 8.5 but the ones on the slave are reading 10. i took a backlight panel i had from a 37 lcd that i had taken apart and i knew the backlight was good.it only has a pink wire on each side so i connected it to my inverters where the pink wires connected and the backlight came on and stayed on. so am i to take from that the inverters are good? bad bulbs and boards? thanks |
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#16 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2009
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist
Posts: 7,013
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Quote:
PlainBill |
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#17 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
City & State: chesterland Ohio
Posts: 390
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If you leave a gap it will jump it and the v will skyrocket out of control.
Some of these bulbs are plug in and the spring tabs are junk at best. Some of these are soldered (much better) You can solder these. Most mosfets will have a base/ collector short (fail on) and easy to detect with a simple meter I will need to dig up an old board and let you know The better set up is the l/g inverter single board It will also work on this panel you will need a longer lead wire (special) if you go this route. There are tons of parts for these and they are cheap. All of the model 30s have very much in common. you can use a 32lg30 mainboard in a 26lg30 and I have also used the 32lg30 mainboard in a 42lg30-ua for testing the panel What is the full model? 42lg30-ua or ud ? these are very different The ua have the au-optronics panel and have given me the most problems. I have not seen any ud series 42lg30s. |
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