Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

[Scenic]

they've been using taicon and ltec for a while now in budget PSUs..
they seem to hold up fairly well..

[ratdude747]

well, if your cooling is good and it is efficient (low heat)... then who knows, maybe you can make crap perform well... delta is good at that...

[370forlife]

Not so much that crap can't perform, it just can't for too long.

Stuff like fuhjyuu/asia-x, YC, JEE, Hermei, CS, etc... can provide excellent ripple suppression so long as the rest of the power supply is designed well.

Though i've always wondered if some taicon series are just nichicons (or vice versa) such as taicon pw and nichicon pw.

[POM_MJ]

I've just found bad TAICON PJ 47/25V failed without any signs in 5VSB circuit of the Delta DPS-300KB-1A.
It made the Delta unit act as MOBO killer like Bestec ATX-250-12E. the 5VSB was output 12V.

I replaced with ELNA RJF 100/50V, 5VSB is good for now.

[ratdude747]

Originally Posted by POM_MJ

I've just found bad TAICON PJ 47/25V failed without any signs in 5VSB circuit of the Delta DPS-300KB-1A.
It made the Delta unit act as MOBO killer like Bestec ATX-250-12E. the 5VSB was output 12V.

I replaced with ELNA RJF 100/50V, 5VSB is good for now.

i doubt we all saw that coming... uh oh... better monitor the 5vsb on those taicon'd deltas...

who would have thought that delta=bestec?

[370forlife]

No surprise as the dps-300kb is a pretty aged unit now. It's still an awesome performing unit otherwise with super tight voltage regulation and low ripple. I don't have mine anymore and it was so crammed full I couldn't tell if it uses a 2 transistor 5vsb, but it probably does. As long as the psu doesn't use the two transistor circuit to generate the 5vsb there is no need to really monitor it.

[goodpsusearch]

Premier LC-B300ATX

- missing or tiny input filter components...

- 4 diodes in place of a bridge rectifier

- 2x330uF input caps

- 2xC2335 7A continuous / 15A pulsed

- EL33 transformer

- missing coils/caps at output filter

- 2 diodes for 12V

- 1x S10C40 for 3.3V

- 1x S10C40 for 5V


What a POS!!!!

[370forlife]

2 10A's for the 5v and 3.3v and 6A for the 12v? WHA? I like the PI filter in place of the choke for the 3.3v.

[ratdude747]

that psu is epic fail... i have seen worse, but that doesn't make it not suck... lamest i have seen since the echo star with the dummy weights...

[goodpsusearch]

Originally Posted by 370forlife

I like the PI filter in place of the choke for the 3.3v.

I have never seen such a thing in a psu before...

[momaka]

Originally Posted by goodpsusearch

I have never seen such a thing in a psu before...

I have - in a slightly older L&C PSU (same company that makes Deer, Allied, Premier, and a few other PSUs by various names). Surprisingly though, it lasted quite a while - 7 years (still works, but I took it out for a better PSU). Had the two diode treatment for the 12v rail as well. Original caps are a mix of Jun Fu, CapXon, and JEE - all still good.
I also have another L&C that has the same exact PCB design as the Premier. Although it's built better, it's still crap. One day the wires started smoking on it and burned. Apparently something overloaded, though I never figured what. Plugged in the PSU the next day, and it worked. Needless to say, I didn't and never will use it in a computer again.
...
I should probably upload my entire L&C/Deer collection some day.

[goodpsusearch]

Originally Posted by momaka

I have - in a slightly older L&C PSU (same company that makes Deer, Allied, Premier, and a few other PSUs by various names). Surprisingly though, it lasted quite a while - 7 years (still works, but I took it out for a better PSU). Had the two diode treatment for the 12v rail as well. Original caps are a mix of Jun Fu, CapXon, and JEE - all still good.
I also have another L&C that has the same exact PCB design as the Premier. Although it's built better, it's still crap. One day the wires started smoking on it and burned. Apparently something overloaded, though I never figured what. Plugged in the PSU the next day, and it worked. Needless to say, I didn't and never will use it in a computer again.
...
I should probably upload my entire L&C/Deer collection some day.

They never stop working! Even if their voltages are completely off.

[ratdude747]

Originally Posted by goodpsusearch

They never stop working! Even if their voltages are completely off.

they stop working when mr. sledgehammer says hi to them!

[cheese007]

Today I pulled a RAIDMAX RX-380K out of an old, partially recapped, eMachines, which I assume was a replacement for the infamous mobo roasting Bestec.

Case is about what you would expect from the lowest end Raidmax. Flimsy, sharp, dull gray. It's also the lightest PSU I've ever held.

Label shot. Optimistic much? Love the inclusion of a -5v rail.

Cables. All of them short, all of them 20AWG, except for the berg connectors which are 22. Cable count:
1 x 20+4 pin ATX
4 x molex
2 x berg
1 x SATA (why?)
1 x P4

Innards. 380W isn't a lot of power, but even then I think this unit is a tad bit (read:very) wimpy looking considering the rating. TINY heatsinks, pitiful excuse for input filter, 4 diode treatment, and crapcaps galore. Speaking of cap selection, primaries are by HEC, secondaries by JEE, GL, and SC. It's almost as if they had a bag of the worst capacitors ever, randomly grabbed a handful, stuck 'em in, and called it a day.

The fan. Sleeve bearing, model number leads to a web page with a spec sheet for several fans, "Metallic Plastic co."

Overall, one of the worst PSUs I've ever had the displeasure of owning. However, a few things did surprise me. 1. It still works. 2. No bad caps. 3. It's still on sale. Yeah, they still sell this thing, and it has a 4 star rating on newegg. *sigh*
EDIT: Formatting.

[c_hegge]

It's a Sun Pro by the looks. Probably only good for wires and maybe the fan. Just make sure you re-lube it first. I've seen a few of those TP/Te Bao fans fail before.

[goodpsusearch]

Even the filtering coil is made of simple wire. Totally cheapish.

[cheese007]

Originally Posted by c_hegge

It's a Sun Pro by the looks.

I can confirm it's sun pro, as that's where the UL leads.

[momaka]

We just pulled out one at work the other day. Was the exact same crap inside. Fan had started seizing so pretty much all of the caps were bulged and/or leaking.
About 2 years ago, I also pulled one from a friend's computer - in that one the fan was working fine, but the crappy caps (CS, GL, JEE) started failing even before that. Then again, the whole PCB had heat discoloration (probably due to the crappy heatsinks) - and that's with a fan that runs on 12v all the time.
Overall, these Sun Pro PSUs are one of the worst I've seen. The Te Bao Metallic Plastic fans in them are actually not that bad, but they tend to seize early because they're ran at full speed.

[pegdizzler]

Here's one:

Seasonic SS-200GPX


Normally a fan of Seasonic, I recently picked up 4 of these for an extremely good price to replacing some aging PSUs in P3 units. They were sold as brand new, and appear to me as new old stock. Upon plugging them in however, I observed they all have an extremely high pitched squeal. There is no dedicated on/off rocker switch on the back, so the noise is constant even when the PC is off and the PSU is only delivering 5vsb.

Think this would be primary or secondary caps causing all the racket, or something else?

It has two Rubycon 200v 470uf on the primary and "P CE-TUR" on the secondary, except for the one and only 16v cap, which is "Z CEHTUR".










Anyone else see the PCB scrape mod? :p I'll have to check the other 3 to see if they have this as well.

[stj]

the blue cap is probably teapo,
and as it may be built a very long time ago, the caps have probably all depolarised by now.