PHILIPS 42PFL5432D/37 Power Supply troubles

[fellim]

Hey Guys,

I own a 42" Philips LCD TV (42PFL5432D/37) that turns on and works fine for about a minute then shuts off. I opened it up and found bloated caps on the power supply but from here i'm not sure what to do. I searched for a new power supply (996500044559) but everywhere I've looked is out of stock. This might sound stupid but, would it be possible to wire an external computer power supply? Or should i start replacing the bad caps?

Any feedback would be highly appreciated!

Thanks,
Marcus

[PlainBill]

First, don't post pictures inline. It slows down loading the thread, irritates retiredcaps, and tends to get threads ignored. Use 'Manage Attachments' (below the text entry area) instead.

Those look like they might be Lelon caps - pure garbage. Replace them.

I suggest making a list of every electrolytic cap on the power supply (except for the very large one). Don't ignore the tiny ones; they can fail without giving any sign. On the list note the value, the voltage, and the diameter of the three in the first picture. Someone will help you select proper replacements.

PlainBill

[daza22]

hi i have a 42pf9631d/10
psu number is 310432842681 pdp psu2k6 the problem im having is it wont power up 6 short red blinks and 3 quick reds ive taken the back off there are no swollen caps or blown caps and i cant even track a replacement power board the model has ambilight on the sides ive unplugged everything apart from power so ive ruled them out any help from u guys would be great im new to this so please forgive me

[fellim]

Wow, fast reply! I apologize for the pictures. I followed your guide and thought i did it correctly.

Here is a parts list: https://www.encompassparts.com/webwi...P42PFL5432D/37

Hopefully that helps. Any idea if i could hook up an external computer PS if all else fails?

Thanks,
Marcus

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by fellim

Here is a parts list: https://www.encompassparts.com/webwi...P42PFL5432D/37

I can't get to that website. Just list the caps here in ascii format like the following ...

C100 - 1000uF 35V 10x30mm, Teapo KF 105C

[fellim]

3- 1500uf 35V GF 105 degrees C
1- 2200uf 16V GF 105 degrees C

12.5mm diameter

I also see smaller caps but i think i might just try and replace the big bloated ones i listed above first.

[Scenic]

Samxon GF.. a cap series known to fail far too early
if we knew where in the world you're located we could post links to possible cap suppliers..

[fellim]

Mankato, Minnesota USA. Thanks!

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by fellim

Mankato, Minnesota USA. Thanks!

Have you had your March blizzard yet? Any bets on how high the water will ride when the snow melts?

The source of your caps is a few hundred miles north of you in Thief River Falls. Here are the Digikey numbers.

1500µF, 35V P14447-ND EEU-FR1V152L $1.43 ea

2200µF, 16V P12369-ND EEU-FM1C222 $1.06 ea

Order by 6:00 PM today, specify USPS First Class Mail shipping, and you should have them on Wednesday, total cost under $10.

PlainBill

[fellim]

The blizzard is suppose to come either tomorrow or Wednesday Just when i thought i could take my motorcycle out of storage....

Thief River Falls?! How convenient! Thank you all very much for your time and wish me luck on my first cap replacement!

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by fellim

The blizzard is suppose to come either tomorrow or Wednesday Just when i thought i could take my motorcycle out of storage....

Thief River Falls?! How convenient! Thank you all very much for your time and wish me luck on my first cap replacement!

You should know better. Mid April is more likely.

It should be pretty straightforward. Note the value and orientation of the original caps. Let the solder melt before pulling the caps. Clean the holes (I use a dissecting pick to force the solder out), double check orientation before soldering in the new caps.

I just completed a Philips 42PF9431D/37 Saturday. The worst part of that was the 46 screws that hold the back on.

PlainBill

[doityourself]

Originally Posted by PlainBill

Have you had your March blizzard yet? Any bets on how high the water will ride when the snow melts?

The source of your caps is a few hundred miles north of you in Thief River Falls. Here are the Digikey numbers.

1500µF, 35V P14447-ND EEU-FR1V152L $1.43 ea

2200µF, 16V P12369-ND EEU-FM1C222 $1.06 ea

Order by 6:00 PM today, specify USPS First Class Mail shipping, and you should have them on Wednesday, total cost under $10.

PlainBill

hi plainbill !

cool advice on the caps...i have same problem.
just wondering if you have seen where a diode on the back of the board has blown out because of the cap issue? the diode is labled D915, a little one.
a visual inspection with a mag glass looks like it could be popped...
any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Don't think it's the backlight. If the blotches are large, it could be uneven pressure on the panel. Try unscrewing all boards a little and see if things improve any.

[fellim]

I tore it apart again and went over every screw i touched and made sure it wasn't too tight but i still see the cloudy spots. If i leave it off overnight and turn it back on it disappears somewhat but seems to get worse the longer it is on.

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Originally Posted by fellim

I tore it apart again and went over every screw i touched and made sure it wasn't too tight but i still see the cloudy spots. If i leave it off overnight and turn it back on it disappears somewhat but seems to get worse the longer it is on.

Could you post a pic of the issue? That way it'll be much easier to get an idea of what could be wrong.

[DetroitVelvetSmooth]

Hello, this is my first post. I have the EXACT same problem on the EXACT same TV. I ordered and replaced the caps listed above. The TV didn't work at first, then came on for about a half hour. After it sat for a bit, it stopped working. Same issue, turns on and everything looks great, then screen goes dead with power light still on.

Any suggesstions? This site has already been very helpful. Thanks in advance.

(edit) My caps were not bloated, but I replaced them anyway.

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by DetroitVelvetSmooth

Hello, this is my first post. I have the EXACT same problem on the EXACT same TV. I ordered and replaced the caps listed above. The TV didn't work at first, then came on for about a half hour. After it sat for a bit, it stopped working. Same issue, turns on and everything looks great, then screen goes dead with power light still on.

Any suggesstions? This site has already been very helpful. Thanks in advance.

(edit) My caps were not bloated, but I replaced them anyway.

1. We will need a single picture of the entire back of the TV with the cover off, of course. I find this helps me identify the relationship between the various parts. See my signature for links on how to take useful pictures. Attach the picture using 'manage attachments' (below the text entry area).

2. When "the screen goes dead with the power light still on' do you still have sound?

3. What caps did you use as replacements?

PlainBill

[DetroitVelvetSmooth]

Originally Posted by PlainBill

1. We will need a single picture of the entire back of the TV with the cover off, of course. I find this helps me identify the relationship between the various parts. See my signature for links on how to take useful pictures. Attach the picture using 'manage attachments' (below the text entry area).

2. When "the screen goes dead with the power light still on' do you still have sound?

3. What caps did you use as replacements?

PlainBill

I will post pics in the morning. I used the exact ones listed above from DigiKey. I checked and made sure all specs were the same before I replaced them.

I popped the back panel off again tonight and plugged 'er in. It will either sit and not light up with the green power light on solid, or it will flicker on for a second or two then go blank again.

I can't answer about the sound, I hook all my stuff up through my surround sound box. If it will help I can find a speaker to plug in and see if I get sound.

[DetroitVelvetSmooth]

Ok, here are some pictures of the TV and PSU. I replaced the 4 large caps you can see in the pic of the PSU, see part numbers listed above from DigiKey.

How would I test the output to the master and slave inverter? It acts like it is "trying" to come on but doesn't have the oomph.

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by DetroitVelvetSmooth

Ok, here are some pictures of the TV and PSU. I replaced the 4 large caps you can see in the pic of the PSU, see part numbers listed above from DigiKey.

How would I test the output to the master and slave inverter? It acts like it is "trying" to come on but doesn't have the oomph.

Disconnect the power supply line to the inverters. If the power supply comes up and there is sound, try shining a flashlight on the screen. If that works (I haven't had much success), then you can be confident the inverters are the problem.

PlainBill