need Help finding replacment Caps

[Danked]

My Sceptre X32GV-Komodo is not powering on properly

took out the power supply and it look like 3 cap are bulging

there Capxon

small one 14mm 470uf 10v
kf temp 105c
c642

bigger one 18 mm 220uf 35v
KF temp 105c

biggest 20 mm 820uf 25v
SY 105c
11/06
T1

[Dgtech]

Where do you live? Have you tried a local Electronics parts store? The hardest one to get is the 820's. I got mine on ebay.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by Danked

took out the power supply and it look like 3 cap are bulging

there Capxon

small one 14mm 470uf 10v
kf temp 105c
c642

bigger one 18 mm 220uf 35v
KF temp 105c

biggest 20 mm 820uf 25v
SY 105c
11/06
T1

If 3 are bulging, replace ALL the caps on the board.

If you live in the USA, you can get the above from digikey.com. All below are Panasonic FM or FC (FC to meet the 20mm 820uF 25V cap).

470uF 10V
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12361-ND

220uF 35V
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12411-ND

820uf 25v
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P11222-ND

[Danked]

thank, I will look into replacing them all

[Uranium-235]

wouldn't a 1000uf 25v sax be sufficient?

[PCBONEZ]

I dunno, wassa sax?

The Capxon KF series has fair ratings even though they are crap.
http://www.capxongroup.com/files/KF%..._167573147.pdf
For those two you at least Panasonic FC but FM are better.

SY series doesn't show an 820uF 25v but judging by the lower uF values the same replacement choices [FC or better] are good enough.

Umm,
Those dimensions don't make any sense.

[Danked]

I replaced the 3 caps and the problems still persists

[Dgtech]

Is it possible that maybe you can post some pictures of the boards in question? When posting pics, use the "Manage Attatchments" on the posting screen.

[Danked]

pics of the power supply

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by Danked

My Sceptre X32GV-Komodo is not powering on properly

Let's get a detailed description of what is happening. Properly can mean a lot of things.

For example,

1) Power on, get green LED.
2) no picture, no sound.

OR

1) Power on, LED does not light
2) no picture, no sound

Etc

edit: Caps do not have to be bloated in order to be bad. You may have more bad caps on this board. Caps can be out of uF tolerance or have high ESR. For example, a 1000uF cap can measure 200uF. A cap can measure 8 ohm ESR which is very high. Neither of these 2 require a cap to be bloated.

Also, do you have multimeter?

[Danked]

the Tv will power on but screen with flicker and turn off after a few secs.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by Danked

the Tv will power on but screen with flicker and turn off after a few secs.

Do you see an actual picture or is the screen white? How long does the screen stay on? What color is the LED when the screen goes off?

More details -> we can narrow down the problem more quickly.

Multimeter?

[PCBONEZ]

Get rid of the OST RLS. [Actually all the OST's] - They will fail without bloating.

Also check the solder connections to the transformers for cracks or a dull appearance. - Because they are bigger than the other solder joints, when they machine solder sometimes those don't always get hot enough and you end up with a cold-solder joint.
.

[Danked]

the picture works but will only stay one for about 30 sec or less, the power light flickers in and out, and yes i have a multimeter.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by Danked

the picture works but will only stay one for about 30 sec or less, the power light flickers in and out, and yes i have a multimeter.

I second PCBONEZ recommendations regarding the soldering and caps. If it works for 30 seconds, then something is obviously intermittent.

edit: This youtube video will give you an idea of how bad soldering on an IC can cause a shutdown after a few seconds ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rePrm...eature=related

[Danked]

I checked the soldering and nothing looks to bad.

how would I test the caps with my multimeter

and a few I would like to test maybe replace
the OSt are 1500uf 35v
and 820uf 35v

Capxon 330uf 35v

2200uf 10v
4700uf 10v kzh


the Tv used to stay on as long as you didnt turn it off, If the Tv didn't turn off after about one minute, you just had to unplug it and try again. cooling the broad seemed to have no effect.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by Danked

I checked the soldering and nothing looks to bad.

It would not hurt to touch or resolder the joints.

how would I test the caps with my multimeter

If your multimeter has a capacitance check, you have to unsolder the caps and test them out of circuit. A multimeter though cannot test the ESR of the cap. For that you need an ESR tester.

edit: Caps do not have to be bloated to be bad. Capxon is a brand hated by members here.

the Tv used to stay on as long as you didnt turn it off, If the Tv didn't turn off after about one minute, you just had to unplug it and try again. cooling the broad seemed to have no effect.

One thing you can try.

1) Have cover off so you can test the boards while the TV is running.
2) Power on the TV and check the secondary voltages (usually 5V DC, 12 V DC, and/or 19V DC).
3) When the TV shuts off, see if the secondary voltages are still present and stable.

This will help narrow down the problem.

[Danked]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

It would not hurt to touch or resolder the joints.

I did try to resolder most the joints

One thing you can try.

1) Have cover off so you can test the boards while the TV is running.
2) Power on the TV and check the secondary voltages (usually 5V DC, 12 V DC, and/or 19V DC).
3) When the TV shuts off, see if the secondary voltages are still present and stable.

This will help narrow down the problem.

not really sure how to do that

[retiredcaps]

It would help if you posted clear focused pictures of all your boards. Take your boards to a window on a sunny day and put your camera on macro mode. A top down picture of both sides on the board is all we need.

On your power board, I see 4 white connectors. It looks like the voltages are all marked.

The connector that leads to the logic board (a board where your inputs plug into - hdmi, vga, svideo, etc) is the one we want to measure.

Put all the boards back together.

With your multimeter, put your black probe in common and your red probe on volts. Set your multimeter to the DC Volts. If it is a manual meter, set it to 20V DC.

1) Power on TV.
2) Put your black probe on a grounded screw on the logic board. This is your ground point.
3) Put your red probe on the logic card white connector. You are going to measure all the pins for voltages. What you are looking for is 5V, 12, and/or 19V DC. Some pins will be 0.0 for Ground. Write down all voltages
4) When the TV goes off, re-check all the pins on the logic card. Write down all voltages.

If the voltages are stable on and off, we can assume that the power board is likely okay.

[Uranium-235]

seriously though, in the case of like a tv/monitor, would maybe a ruby 1000uf 25v work in place of a 820 25v?