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    Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

    Hello all,

    I've come across a non-working Vizio 50" Plasma TV that was abandoned by it's owner. It is a Vizio JV50P HDTV10A. The inside label says it's made by LG and it's model number PDP50X4TA35.

    The previous owner said they watched the TV all day and the next morning they went to turn it on and got nothing, other than a click. No pops, smell or picture/sound problems prior to it dying.

    I pulled the back and had a look around. I don't see any evidence of bad capacitors, although I did check the ESR many of the larger ones on several boards. The power supply looks in very good shape. All the voltages that are labeled are within specs.

    When I plug the TV in I can turn the TV on with either the remote or by pushing the panel's power button. I get two clicks, and the TV appears to power up normally. On the controller board I see 4 LEDs, labeled D5, D4, D3 and D2. All except D2 are lit. If the lights in the room are dim you can see the Plasma panel glow, but there is no picture. Also, once the TV is turned on the is no response from either the remote or the panel's controls (i.e. you can't turn it off except by pulling the plug).

    I can let the TV run for a while and if I do a "finger" test on some of the components I see they are getting warm, as I would expect if they were operating normally. But there is absolutely no picture or sound, nor is there any control after the initial power up.

    I can hear a slight "buzz" coming from the ZSUS and YSUS boards. It appears they are working normally, and they have proper voltages applied to them.

    Because of the lack of control after the set is turned on I'm leaning towards the Main Board as being the problem. It's part number is 3850-0162-0150 (2A). I am also considering the controller board, but it would help if I knew what the meaning of the LEDs were.

    Any help would be appreciated. I can post pics if need be, but I really don't think they are necessary.

    Thanks,

    Chuck

    #2
    Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

    That certainly appears to be a main board problem. Even if it were a logic main board problem you should be able to turn it on and off with the remote.

    The problem sounds familiar - certain Vizio LCD TVs have the same symptoms. At this point I suggest you check the LDO regulators on the main board. It's a long shot, but it's where I would start. If you have a problem identifying them, attach a picture of the main board to your next post. Sharp and well lit are a big help - dark and blurry doesn't help much. The site has a limit of 2000 x 2000 pixels for pictures - it is best you get as close to that as possible. Attach it using 'Manage Attachments' - below the text entry area.

    PlainBill
    For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

    Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

      I only saw two voltage regulators on the main board, one on the left side, near the WiFi module (an LDO) and one on the right (a standard 7805T). The 7805T checks ok with 5V, the 1084 is a bit harder to check because I believe it's output is adjustable. I get 1.3v on pin 1 (adj), 2.6v on pin 2 (Output) and 4.8V on pin 3 (Input). I have no idea what the output voltage should be, but 2.6v seems a little odd. However, I would expect the output voltage to be lower than the input voltage, which it is. Maybe I should replace it anyway, it's cheap enough.

      Attached are some pictures .... an overview of the entire back of the TV, a closer view of the main board & controller, and a closeup of the main board itself.

      Thanks, Chuck

      edit: I am a little unsure if the LDO is adjustable or fixed ... it's hard to tell by the markings on the case. It is marked 1084, and 0642AL just underneath. This particular part is available in 3.3, 5 and 12v fixed as well an adjustable version. Since I don't see 3.3, 5 or 12 on it I'm assuming it is the adjustable version.

      Originally posted by PlainBill View Post
      The problem sounds familiar - certain Vizio LCD TVs have the same symptoms. At this point I suggest you check the LDO regulators on the main board. It's a long shot, but it's where I would start. If you have a problem identifying them, attach a picture of the main board to your next post. Sharp and well lit are a big help - dark and blurry doesn't help much. The site has a limit of 2000 x 2000 pixels for pictures - it is best you get as close to that as possible. Attach it using 'Manage Attachments' - below the text entry area.

      PlainBill
      Attached Files
      Last edited by csadoian; 08-03-2011, 10:52 AM. Reason: LDO info

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

        You missed a few.

        PlainBill
        Attached Files
        For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

        Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

          Yes, I was being lazy ...

          I found a nice thread at http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics...eo/590118.html that, along with your help put me on the right track.

          After measuring voltages on the LDOs I see U33 is probably bad. It supplies 3.3v to U7 and U9, which make them appear bad too, but they are not because they do not have any source voltage and U33 does.

          The only thing I am not sure of is if the LDO is a 3.3 fixed or and adjustable regulator. The AMC1117 (or LD1117) comes in adjustable and fixed (1.5, 1.8, 2.5, 3.3 and 5.0). The only markings on the device are AMC1117 followed by F703J. I would think if it was a fixed it would show 3.3 on it somewhere. However, they are cheap enough so I will get a 3.3 and an adjustable, just to be sure.

          I hoping that replacing the regulator will fix the problem

          Thanks, Chuck

          Originally posted by PlainBill View Post
          You missed a few.

          PlainBill

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

            Originally posted by csadoian View Post
            Yes, I was being lazy ...

            I found a nice thread at http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics...eo/590118.html that, along with your help put me on the right track.

            After measuring voltages on the LDOs I see U33 is probably bad. It supplies 3.3v to U7 and U9, which make them appear bad too, but they are not because they do not have any source voltage and U33 does.

            The only thing I am not sure of is if the LDO is a 3.3 fixed or and adjustable regulator. The AMC1117 (or LD1117) comes in adjustable and fixed (1.5, 1.8, 2.5, 3.3 and 5.0). The only markings on the device are AMC1117 followed by F703J. I would think if it was a fixed it would show 3.3 on it somewhere. However, they are cheap enough so I will get a 3.3 and an adjustable, just to be sure.

            I hoping that replacing the regulator will fix the problem

            Thanks, Chuck
            Just be careful not to replace an adjustable with a 3.3V, the potentially higher output could fry something.
            Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
            For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

              Well, that was easy

              I was just about to order a couple of AMC1117 regulators when I decided to look at my "graveyard" of old motherboards that I keep around (I fix computers for a living). I figured in the computer world 3.3v regulators are probably pretty common. Sure enough, the first board I checked had three of those little rascals on it. So I got out my SMD rework tool and removed one of them and transplanted it to the U33 position on the Vizio's main board. I then hooked everything back up, powered it up and - it WORKS!

              In fact, it works quite well, thank you. Very nice picture for a 5 year old plasma set. It's also amazing how much hotter things get when the TV is actually displaying a picture. The power supply heat sinks and the heat sinks on the SUS boards really generate lots of heat. I don't think I will have to run my heater in the wintertime However, it may cost me more in air conditioning. The back of the TV has some cut outs where one could put a slim fan or two, and I may just do that. Heat is the enemy of everything electronic!

              Just to be sure I checked the voltage on U33 and it is a nice steady 3.29v, right where it should be.

              Thanks for the help!

              Chuck

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

                Originally posted by csadoian View Post
                Well, that was easy

                I was just about to order a couple of AMC1117 regulators when I decided to look at my "graveyard" of old motherboards that I keep around (I fix computers for a living). I figured in the computer world 3.3v regulators are probably pretty common. Sure enough, the first board I checked had three of those little rascals on it. So I got out my SMD rework tool and removed one of them and transplanted it to the U33 position on the Vizio's main board. I then hooked everything back up, powered it up and - it WORKS!

                In fact, it works quite well, thank you. Very nice picture for a 5 year old plasma set. It's also amazing how much hotter things get when the TV is actually displaying a picture. The power supply heat sinks and the heat sinks on the SUS boards really generate lots of heat. I don't think I will have to run my heater in the wintertime However, it may cost me more in air conditioning. The back of the TV has some cut outs where one could put a slim fan or two, and I may just do that. Heat is the enemy of everything electronic!

                Just to be sure I checked the voltage on U33 and it is a nice steady 3.29v, right where it should be.

                Thanks for the help!

                Chuck
                Great to hear!

                My 42" I am working on apparently gets very hot too, the panel itself has warnings about burning yourself! It eats up about 600W run mode, full white. For most light sources, about 5% efficiency can be assumed, so that TV is almost like a 600W room heater!

                A fan or two is a very good idea - I see many higher end sets include them. But, you'd do best getting the biggest fans you can fit. They will make much less noise than a small fan and provide more airflow. As the TV stands vertically, work with convection: hot air rises, so pull air through the TV from the bottom to the top, using fans mounted at the top of the set.
                Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
                For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

                  Originally posted by csadoian View Post
                  Well, that was easy

                  I was just about to order a couple of AMC1117 regulators when I decided to look at my "graveyard" of old motherboards that I keep around (I fix computers for a living). I figured in the computer world 3.3v regulators are probably pretty common. Sure enough, the first board I checked had three of those little rascals on it. So I got out my SMD rework tool and removed one of them and transplanted it to the U33 position on the Vizio's main board. I then hooked everything back up, powered it up and - it WORKS!

                  In fact, it works quite well, thank you. Very nice picture for a 5 year old plasma set. It's also amazing how much hotter things get when the TV is actually displaying a picture. The power supply heat sinks and the heat sinks on the SUS boards really generate lots of heat. I don't think I will have to run my heater in the wintertime However, it may cost me more in air conditioning. The back of the TV has some cut outs where one could put a slim fan or two, and I may just do that. Heat is the enemy of everything electronic!

                  Just to be sure I checked the voltage on U33 and it is a nice steady 3.29v, right where it should be.

                  Thanks for the help!

                  Chuck
                  Well done. Apparently that same main board made it into quite a few sets. For some reason there has been a high failure rate on that regulator. The 1117 regulators are available from several manufacturers, some are rated at .8A, others are rated for 1.0A. If I knew of any that were rated for 1.5A I would be recommending them.

                  PlainBill
                  For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                  Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

                    It's very surprising these linear regulators fail. They have overcurrent protection and thermal SOA protection. Maybe when they operate on the borderline for a long time it leads to their failure.
                    Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
                    For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

                      Originally posted by PlainBill View Post
                      Well done. Apparently that same main board made it into quite a few sets. For some reason there has been a high failure rate on that regulator. The 1117 regulators are available from several manufacturers, some are rated at .8A, others are rated for 1.0A. If I knew of any that were rated for 1.5A I would be recommending them.

                      PlainBill
                      When I was looking for a source for the 1117 regulator I did see at least one manufacturer that rated it as 1.5a, although I am suspect of that rating. When you check the data sheet for a 1117 it normally says 800ma. Maybe it can handle higher current depending on how it's mounted (soldered) to the pc board.

                      Considering it took 5 years for the regulator to fail I don't think it's a big risk to use the same part. Part of the problem may be that it appears the output of U33 is used as source voltage for two other regulators (U7 & U9), and that might put current drain at close to maximum. In the SOT-223 package there is nothing higher rated, but there are some in TO-220 packages that are. It would just look a little funny soldered to the PC board and would probably require a heat sink.

                      Oh, by the way the device *IS* the adjustable version, not a fixed 3.3v.

                      Chuck

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

                        I used my Kill-O-Watt meter on the panel today ... during a typical TV show it was running around 3.8amps, 450 watts. Not as bad as I thought.

                        I think we probably average around 6-7 hours per day run time, so that would be about 210 hours per month, which works out to about 94KWh per month. Round that to 100Kwh/month. In my area (California, near Fresno) the more power you use the more it costs, and I usually average around 1500Kwh per month during the summer months due to air conditioner use. Using that level of power probably works out to about .18/kwh, so during the summer months it would probably cost me around $18-20 to operate the set. Well worth it

                        I wonder what a typical 50" LCD TV uses in power these days?

                        Originally posted by tom66 View Post
                        Great to hear!

                        My 42" I am working on apparently gets very hot too, the panel itself has warnings about burning yourself! It eats up about 600W run mode, full white. For most light sources, about 5% efficiency can be assumed, so that TV is almost like a 600W room heater!

                        A fan or two is a very good idea - I see many higher end sets include them. But, you'd do best getting the biggest fans you can fit. They will make much less noise than a small fan and provide more airflow. As the TV stands vertically, work with convection: hot air rises, so pull air through the TV from the bottom to the top, using fans mounted at the top of the set.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

                          Originally posted by csadoian View Post
                          Yes, I was being lazy ...

                          I found a nice thread at http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics...eo/590118.html that, along with your help put me on the right track.

                          After measuring voltages on the LDOs I see U33 is probably bad. It supplies 3.3v to U7 and U9, which make them appear bad too, but they are not because they do not have any source voltage and U33 does.

                          The only thing I am not sure of is if the LDO is a 3.3 fixed or and adjustable regulator. The AMC1117 (or LD1117) comes in adjustable and fixed (1.5, 1.8, 2.5, 3.3 and 5.0). The only markings on the device are AMC1117 followed by F703J. I would think if it was a fixed it would show 3.3 on it somewhere. However, they are cheap enough so I will get a 3.3 and an adjustable, just to be sure.

                          I hoping that replacing the regulator will fix the problem

                          Thanks, Chuck
                          I have the exact same model and problem, I work with computer but I am S/W not H/W. I am willing to try this repair on my own, but I think I would need more help/guidance. Can you help me or should I not try?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

                            first off not tryin to hijack this thread just have a simple request. im newly registered but have been using this site for along time salvaged alot of tvs thanks to you guys. i have this same tv but im stuck! i bought it off craigslist and someone took the wires off of p800 cn803 cn802 plugs and left them dangling out of the connectors i cant find a pinout or a good pic of what wires go where i think the main p800 plug is ok the others are screwy would be much appreciated if someone could shoot me a few detailed pics of the connectors

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Vizio JV50P HDTV10A Plasma

                              I just want to add some additional information on potential failures on this model of television. Several other forums have questions about how to diagnose and fix several different failures. The one I (and quite a few others) have experienced is no picture when the tv is turned on but sound is there. Some people never get the picture back, but a number of people have found that letting the set warm up for 10-30 minutes, then cycling power off and on does get their picture back. I lived with it this way for many months then decided last weekend to find and fix it. I opened it up and followed the suggestion to look for bad caps on the power supply board. I found 9 on the power supply board in the center of the set that look like the attached picture. The bulge on the end and the stained metal from a leak show that the caps are bad. I ordered 12 replacements from Digi-key for $10 + shipping, received them after 2 days, pulled the old, soldered in the new, and the TV now works like new. Be careful soldering in the aluminum electrolytic capacitors, there is a polarity to be followed. If they are put in backwards, I have been told they can pop like a firecracker. The circuit board should have a - sign on one side or a circle with a small arc missing and two dots. The - sign of the two dots should line up with the - sign on the cap or the silver strip you can see in this picture. These particular ones are 3300 micro-Farad(uF), rated to 10V, M tolerance. I spent an extra 20 cents each to get versions with 2000 hour rated lifetime instead of 1000. Good Luck!
                              Attached Files

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